Nice Travel Guide: The Queen of the French Riviera
Table of Contents
Introduction: The Azure Jewel of the Côte d'Azur
Nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and the foothills of the Alps, Nice reigns as the undisputed queen of the French Riviera. With its spectacular Bay of Angels, iconic pebble beaches, and year-round sunshine, this city has captivated artists, aristocrats, and travelers for centuries. Founded by the Greeks and later shaped by Italian and French influences, Nice boasts a unique cultural identity that sets it apart from other Mediterranean destinations.
What makes Nice truly special is its perfect balance of natural beauty and urban sophistication. The city's light—the same that inspired artists like Matisse and Chagall—bathes everything in a golden glow, while the vibrant colors of the buildings in Vieux Nice (Old Town) create a painter's palette come to life. The famous Promenade des Anglais, with its iconic blue chairs, stretches for seven kilometers along the sea, offering the perfect stage for the city's daily parade of life.
The vibe in Nice is elegantly relaxed—a sophisticated yet unpretentious atmosphere where luxury coexists with authenticity. Mornings begin with the scent of fresh bread from neighborhood boulangeries, afternoons are for swimming in the turquoise waters, and evenings come alive with the buzz of aperitivo hour in the cobblestone streets of the old town. Nice manages to be both glamorous and approachable, historic and contemporary, making it the perfect gateway to the French Riviera's wonders.
How to Get There
Air Travel
Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE) is France's second busiest airport outside of Paris and serves as the main gateway to the French Riviera. Located just 7 kilometers from the city center, it offers direct flights to major European cities including London, Paris, Amsterdam, and Frankfurt, as well as seasonal intercontinental flights. The airport has two terminals connected by a free shuttle, with Terminal 1 handling most international flights.
Train Travel
Nice Ville railway station is the main train station, conveniently located in the city center. It offers excellent connections along the Côte d'Azur, including high-speed TGV service to Paris (approximately 5.5 hours), regional TER trains to Cannes, Monaco, and Menton, and international services to Italy. The station is within walking distance of many hotels and the Promenade des Anglais.
Driving Times from Major Cities
| Starting Point | Approximate Driving Time | Distance |
|---|---|---|
| Cannes | 40 minutes | 32 km |
| Monaco | 25 minutes | 20 km |
| Saint-Tropez | 2 hours | 130 km |
| Marseille | 2 hours, 15 minutes | 200 km |
| Genoa, Italy | 2 hours, 45 minutes | 240 km |
Local Transportation
Tramway
Nice's modern tram system has two lines that cover most of the city center and key neighborhoods. Line 1 runs from the northern suburbs to the port, while Line 2 serves the western districts. Trams are efficient, clean, and run frequently.
Buses
Lignes d'Azur operates an extensive bus network that covers the entire metropolitan area, including routes to nearby towns and villages. The number 100 bus to Monaco offers spectacular coastal views at a fraction of the taxi cost.
Walking & Biking
Nice's compact city center is highly walkable, with most major attractions within reasonable distance. The Vélobleu bike-sharing system offers an affordable way to explore, with dedicated bike lanes along the promenade and throughout the city.
Where to Stay
Nice offers accommodations ranging from palatial belle époque hotels to charming family-run guesthouses. The most popular areas to stay are along the Promenade des Anglais (for sea views), Vieux Nice (for historic charm), and the Jean Médecin area (for shopping and transportation access).
Luxury Hotels
Hôtel Negresco: The iconic belle époque palace on the Promenade des Anglais, featuring a remarkable art collection and Michelin-starred dining.
Le Méridien Nice: Direct beachfront location with modern rooms, a rooftop terrace, and prime position on the promenade.
Hyatt Regency Palais de la Méditerranée: Art deco masterpiece with a spectacular outdoor pool and private beach club.
Mid-Range Hotels
Hôtel Suisse: Stunning sea views from the Colline du Château area, with a charming terrace and comfortable rooms.
Hôtel Windsor: Boutique hotel with artist-designed rooms, tropical garden, and outdoor pool in a quiet neighborhood.
AC Hotel by Marriott Nice: Modern business-friendly hotel near the train station with rooftop bar and contemporary design.
Budget Options
Villa Saint Exupéry Beach: Popular hostel with both dorms and private rooms, located in a converted monastery.
Hôtel du Petit Louvre: Charming budget hotel in the heart of Vieux Nice with basic but clean accommodations.
Airbnb Apartments: Numerous vacation rentals throughout the city, particularly in the Old Town and Liberation areas.
Family-Friendly
Holiday Inn Nice: Spacious family rooms, outdoor pool, and convenient location near the airport and Promenade.
Apart'hotel AMMI Vieux Nice: Apartment-style accommodations with kitchenettes, perfect for families needing more space.
Hôtel Apollinaire: Family-run hotel with triple and quadruple rooms, located in a quiet residential area.
Unique Stays
Hôtel La Pérouse: Built into the cliffside below Castle Hill, offering spectacular views and a secluded atmosphere.
Hôtel Gounod: Beautiful 19th-century mansion with period decor and access to the pool at the luxury Palais de la Méditerranée.
Yelo RBnB: Eco-friendly boutique hotel with creatively designed rooms in the emerging Riquier neighborhood.
What to See: Main Attractions
Promenade des Anglais
This iconic seven-kilometer waterfront walkway is the heart and soul of Nice. Originally built in the 19th century for English aristocrats who wintered in Nice (hence the name "Promenade of the English"), it remains the city's most famous landmark. The promenade is lined with palm trees, the famous blue chairs, and beautiful art deco buildings. It's perfect for walking, cycling, or simply watching the world go by. Early morning offers peaceful solitude, while sunset transforms it into a golden-hued spectacle with locals and tourists enjoying the evening air.
Vieux Nice (Old Town)
Getting lost in the labyrinthine streets of Vieux Nice is one of the city's greatest pleasures. This historic quarter features narrow cobblestone streets lined with tall, colorful buildings in shades of ochre, yellow, and rust red. The area buzzes with activity from morning until late at night, with bustling markets, small shops selling Provençal fabrics and artisanal products, and numerous restaurants and cafes. The stunning Baroque architecture includes the Palais Lascaris and the Chapelle de la Miséricorde, while the Cours Saleya market fills the main square with flowers, produce, and antiques depending on the day.
Colline du Château (Castle Hill)
Though no castle remains today, this hill overlooking the city and bay offers the most spectacular panoramic views of Nice. The climb up (or elevator ride) is rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the Old Town, the port, and the endless blue of the Mediterranean. The hill features shaded walking paths, a waterfall, archaeological ruins, and a large park perfect for picnics. The cemetery on the eastern side contains elaborate tombs of notable Niçois figures. Allow at least 1-2 hours to fully explore and soak in the views from different vantage points.
Marc Chagall National Museum
Dedicated primarily to the Russian-French artist Marc Chagall, this museum houses the world's largest collection of his works. The centerpiece is The Message of Bible, a series of 17 large paintings depicting scenes from Genesis, Exodus, and the Song of Songs. The building was designed specifically to showcase Chagall's work, with natural lighting that enhances the vibrant colors of his paintings. The museum also features stained glass windows, mosaics, and temporary exhibitions. Even those unfamiliar with Chagall's work will be moved by the spiritual and emotional power of these creations.
Russian Orthodox Cathedral
This stunning cathedral, with its colorful onion domes and rich interior, seems almost out of place in the South of France but reflects Nice's history as a favorite destination for Russian aristocracy. Built between 1903 and 1912, it was commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II and remains one of the most important Orthodox churches outside Russia. The intricate iconostasis, elaborate woodwork, and beautiful frescoes create an atmosphere of spiritual grandeur. The cathedral serves Nice's Russian community and is open to visitors outside of service times.
Things to Do
Outdoor Activities
Beach Time: Enjoy the famous pebble beaches, whether at public areas or private beach clubs with loungers and service.
Parc Phoenix: Seven hectares of botanical gardens with over 2,500 plant species and a large tropical greenhouse.
Mont Boron: Wooded hill with walking trails offering spectacular views over Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Port Lympia: Stroll around Nice's colorful port, watching yachts and traditional fishing boats come and go.
Tours & Experiences
Food Tours: Explore Vieux Nice's culinary secrets with guided tours sampling local specialties.
Walking Tours: Historical tours covering the Old Town, belle époque architecture, or artistic heritage.
Boat Excursions: Harbor tours or trips along the coast to nearby villages and beaches.
Wine Tasting: Sample local Provençal wines at caves or through organized tasting sessions.
Seasonal Activities
Summer: Beach days, outdoor concerts, the Nice Jazz Festival, and fireworks on Bastille Day.
Fall: Grape harvest festivals, pleasant hiking weather, and the quieter post-summer season.
Winter: Christmas markets, the Carnival of Nice preparation, and mild weather for sightseeing.
Spring: Flower markets at their peak, perfect beach weather, and the famous Nice Carnival.
Nightlife & Entertainment
Nice offers diverse nightlife options, from sophisticated rooftop bars to traditional pubs and nightclubs. The Old Town comes alive after dark with numerous bars and restaurants, particularly around Place Rossetti. For cocktails with a view, head to rooftop bars like Le Plongeoir or the rooftop at the AC Hotel. The port area features trendy clubs and music venues, while the Jean Médecin area offers more casual pubs and bars. During summer, open-air concerts and events take place along the promenade and in various parks throughout the city.
Food & Drink
Nice's culinary scene reflects its geographical position between France and Italy, creating a unique Niçois cuisine that features fresh Mediterranean ingredients, olive oil, herbs, and seafood. From street food to Michelin-starred dining, the city offers incredible gastronomic experiences.
Must-Try Local Dishes
- Salade Niçoise: The authentic version includes tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, Niçoise olives, anchovies, and artichokes—no cooked vegetables or potatoes.
- Socca: Chickpea flour pancake cooked in a wood-fired oven, a classic Niçois street food.
- Pissaladière: Onion tart topped with anchovies and olives, similar to pizza.
- Pan Bagnat: Tuna salad sandwich drenched in olive oil, essentially a Salade Niçoise in a bun.
- Tourte de Blettes: Sweet Swiss chard pie that can include raisins, pine nuts, and sometimes apples.
Recommended Restaurants
| Restaurant | Cuisine | Price Range | Highlight |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | French Mediterranean | $$$ | Michelin-starred tasting menus with local ingredients |
| La Merenda | Traditional Niçois | $$ | Authentic local dishes in a tiny, no-reservations bistro |
| Lou Pistou | Provençal | $$ | Charming Old Town restaurant with terrace seating |
| Chez Pipo | Niçois Street Food | $ | The best socca in Nice, near the port |
| L'Uzine | International | $$ | Trendy converted factory with multiple food concepts |
Cafés, Bakeries & Bars
Notable Cafés
Café de Turin: Famous seafood brasserie in the Old Town, particularly known for its oysters.
Patisserie Canet: Family bakery since 1958, offering traditional French pastries and breads.
Emile's Cookies: American-style cookies and coffee in the heart of Vieux Nice.
Ice Cream & Sweet Treats
Fenocchio: Legendary glacier with over 90 flavors, including unusual options like lavender and tomato-basil.
Pâtisserie LAC: Award-winning chocolates and traditional French pastries near Masséna Square.
Oliviera: Unique shop specializing in olive oil-based products and tastings.
Bars & Pubs
Le Plongeoir: Iconic bar/restaurant built on a rock in the sea, with stunning views.
Les Distilleries Idéales:
Popular spot on Place Rossetti for people-watching with reasonably priced drinks. Ma Nolan's: Irish pub with sports screens and live music near the port.
Markets & Street Food
The Cours Saleya market is Nice's most famous market, operating every morning except Mondays (when it becomes an antiques market). The flower market section is particularly beautiful, with vibrant colors and scents filling the air. The Liberation market in the northern part of the city offers a more local experience with excellent produce, cheese, and meat stalls. For street food, look for socca stands in the Old Town, particularly Chez René Socca and Chez Pipo near the port.
Shopping
Nice offers diverse shopping experiences from luxury boutiques to charming local markets. Whether you're looking for designer fashion, Provençal fabrics, or authentic food products, you'll find plenty of options.
Shopping Districts
Avenue Jean Médecin: Nice's main shopping street with department stores and international chains.
Rue de France: Trendy boutiques, concept stores, and restaurants between the Old Town and Promenade.
Vieux Nice: Artisanal shops selling soaps, olive oil, spices, and Provençal fabrics.
Carré d'Or: Luxury boutiques around Rue Paradis and Avenue de Verdun.
Markets & Local Crafts
Cours Saleya Market: Daily flower and produce market, plus antiques on Mondays.
Liberation Market: Authentic local market with food products and household items.
Maison Auer: Historic confectionery famous for its candied fruits since 1820.
Savonnerie Marseillaise: Traditional Marseille soap and Provençal products.
Souvenir Ideas
- Olive oil and olive wood products from local producers
- Herbes de Provence and other local spice blends
- Traditional Marseille soap in various scents
- Candied fruits from Maison Auer
- Provençal fabrics and tablecloths
- Local wines from Bellet, Nice's own appellation
Shopping Malls
For those preferring indoor shopping centers, Nice Etoile on Avenue Jean Médecin offers three floors of shops including French and international brands. Cap 3000 in Saint-Laurent-du-Var (just west of Nice) is one of the largest malls on the French Riviera with over 130 stores, while the Nice TNL shopping center near the airport provides convenience for last-minute purchases.
Culture & Local Life
Nice's culture is a unique blend of French and Italian influences, with its own distinct Nissart traditions. The city has a vibrant arts scene, colorful festivals, and a relaxed Mediterranean lifestyle that values good food, family, and enjoyment of life's pleasures.
Festivals & Events
Nice's calendar is filled with exciting events throughout the year. The Nice Carnival in February/March is one of the world's major carnival events, featuring spectacular flower parades, giant puppets, and battles of flowers. The Nice Jazz Festival in July brings internationally renowned artists to various venues across the city. Other notable events include the Festival of Saint Peter in June with traditional boat processions, the Christmas market in Place Masséna during December, and the Lemon Festival in nearby Menton each February.
Art & Music Scene
Nice has a rich artistic heritage, having attracted numerous artists drawn by the exceptional light and colors of the Côte d'Azur. In addition to the Marc Chagall and Matisse museums, the city boasts the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMAC) with its impressive collection of works from the 1960s to the present. The musical scene includes the Opéra de Nice, the Nice Philharmonic Orchestra, and numerous jazz clubs. During summer, free concerts take place in parks and public squares throughout the city.
Local Stories & Legends
Nice is steeped in legends and historical tales. One popular story explains the city's name: according to legend, Nice was named Nikaia after Nike, the Greek goddess of victory, to commemorate a victory over a neighboring Ligurian tribe. Another tale involves the creation of Salade Niçoise, said to have been invented by fishermen using whatever ingredients they had on hand. The city's Italian heritage is reflected in stories about Garibaldi, the Italian unification hero who was born in Nice when it was still part of the Kingdom of Sardinia.
Practical Information
Safety & Local Laws
Nice is generally safe, but standard precautions against pickpocketing in crowded areas like markets and the promenade are advised. The legal drinking age is 18, and smoking is prohibited in indoor public spaces. When swimming, pay attention to the beach warning flags: green for safe swimming, orange for dangerous conditions, and red for prohibited swimming. Nudity is only permitted on designated nudist beaches.
Emergency Numbers
- European Emergency Number: 112
- Police: 17
- Fire Department/Ambulance: 18
- SAMU (Medical Emergency): 15
Weather & Best Times to Visit
Nice enjoys a Mediterranean climate with mild winters and warm, sunny summers. The best times to visit are May-June and September-October, when temperatures are pleasant (20-25°C/68-77°F) and crowds are smaller. July-August offers the warmest beach weather but is also the busiest and most expensive period. Winter is mild with temperatures around 12°C (54°F), perfect for sightseeing without the crowds.
Currency & Costs
France uses the Euro (€). Credit cards are widely accepted, though it's wise to carry some cash for smaller establishments and markets. Nice is moderately expensive, though more affordable than nearby Monaco. Expect to pay approximately:
- Mid-range hotel: €120-250/night
- Meal at casual restaurant: €20-35 per person
- Glass of wine: €5-8
- Public transit ticket: €1.50
- Museum admission: €10-15
Transportation Passes
Lignes d'Azur offers various passes including single tickets (€1.50), 10-journey passes (€10), 1-day passes (€5), and 7-day passes (€15). The French Riviera Pass provides free admission to many attractions and unlimited public transportation across the region, available in 24-hour (€26), 48-hour (€38), or 72-hour (€56) versions.
Hidden Gems
Beyond the well-known attractions, Nice hides numerous treasures that offer a more authentic local experience away from the tourist crowds.
Quiet Parks & Views
Cimiez Monastery Gardens: Peaceful gardens surrounding a 16th-century monastery with Roman ruins nearby.
Parc du Vinaigrier: Little-known park with walking trails and panoramic views over the port and Old Town.
Promenade du Paillon: Modern green space stretching from the Modern Art Museum to Place Masséna with fountains and play areas.
Unique Cafés & Shops
Koko Green: Vegan café and grocery in the port area with healthy options and eco-friendly products.
Boutique du Cirque: Charming shop dedicated to circus memorabilia near the Old Town.
La Tarte Tropézienne: The Nice outpost of the famous Saint-Tropez bakery, perfect for coffee and pastries.
Off-the-Beaten-Path Attractions
Catacombs of Nice: Underground passages beneath the city, occasionally open for guided tours.
Bibliothèque Louis Nucéra: Modern library with excellent views from its upper floors and regular exhibitions.
Carré des Serruriers: Historic square in the Old Town with traditional Niçois architecture and atmosphere.
Itineraries
24-Hour Nice Express
| Time | Activity | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 9:00 AM | Cours Saleya Market | Experience the colors and scents of Nice's famous market |
| 10:30 AM | Explore Vieux Nice | Wander the cobblestone streets and visit Palais Lascaris |
| 12:30 PM | Lunch in Old Town | Sample socca and other Niçois specialties |
| 2:00 PM | Castle Hill | Climb up for panoramic views of the city and bay |
| 4:00 PM | Promenade des Anglais | Stroll along the famous waterfront |
| 7:00 PM | Aperitivo in Old Town | Enjoy pre-dinner drinks on Place Rossetti |
| 8:30 PM | Dinner in Vieux Nice | Traditional Niçois cuisine in a charming restaurant |
2-Day Nice Explorer
Day 1: Historic Nice
Morning: Cours Saleya Market, Vieux Nice walking tour
Afternoon: Castle Hill, Russian Orthodox Cathedral
Evening: Dinner in Old Town, evening stroll along promenade
Day 2: Art & Modern Nice
Morning: Marc Chagall Museum, Cimiez Roman ruins
Afternoon: Modern Art Museum (MAMAC), shopping on Avenue Jean Médecin
Evening: Sunset drinks at a rooftop bar, dinner in the port area
3-Day Riviera Experience
Day 1: Nice Core
Old Town, Castle Hill, Promenade des Anglais, dinner in Vieux Nice
Day 2: Art & Culture
Chagall Museum, Matisse Museum, Modern Art Museum, evening in port area
Day 3: Day Trip
Choose between Monaco, Èze, or Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Specialty Itineraries
Family Itinerary
Parc Phoenix, beach time, Castle Hill playground, tram ride, ice cream at Fenocchio
Romantic Getaway
Sunset on Promenade des Anglais, dinner with sea view, walk through Old Town, day trip to Èze
Budget Traveler
Free walking tour, public beaches, picnic from market, free museum days, hiking Mont Boron
Nearby Destinations
Nice's strategic location makes it the perfect base for exploring the French Riviera. These day trips showcase the diversity and beauty of the region.
Coastal Villages
Èze: Medieval hilltop village with spectacular views and exotic gardens (20 minutes by train).
Villefranche-sur-Mer: Picturesque fishing village with colorful buildings and deep natural harbor (15 minutes by train).
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: Exclusive peninsula with beautiful villas and coastal walking path (20 minutes by bus).
Historic Towns
Antibes: Charming old town, Picasso Museum, and famous yacht harbor (30 minutes by train).
Cagnes-sur-Mer: Medieval Haut-de-Cagnes village and Renoir's former home (25 minutes by train).
Saint-Paul-de-Vence: Famous fortified village with art galleries and stunning views (40 minutes by bus).
Principality & Italy
Monaco: Glamorous principality with casino, palace, and aquarium (25 minutes by train).
Menton: Beautiful town near the Italian border known for lemons and gardens (35 minutes by train).
Ventimiglia, Italy: Italian border town with famous Friday market (45 minutes by train).
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best way to get from Nice Airport to the city center?
The most convenient options from Nice Airport are the tram line 2 (which connects both terminals to the city center in about 20 minutes) or the number 98 and 99 express buses. Taxis are readily available but more expensive, with a fixed rate of approximately €32 to central Nice. Ride-sharing services also operate at the airport.
Are the beaches in Nice sandy or pebbly?
Nice's beaches are composed of smooth pebbles rather than sand, which creates incredibly clear turquoise water but can be uncomfortable for walking or lying directly on. Most visitors rent loungers and mattresses from beach clubs, or bring thick beach mats. The few sandy beaches on the French Riviera are located in Antibes and Saint-Tropez.
What is the difference between Niçois cuisine and general French cuisine?
Niçois cuisine has strong Italian influences, featuring more olive oil, vegetables, and herbs than butter and cream-based sauces found in northern French cooking. Dishes often include ingredients like chickpeas, olives, anchovies, and seasonal vegetables. The proximity to Italy is evident in dishes like socca (similar to farinata) and pissaladière (similar to pizza).
Is it necessary to speak French in Nice?
While French is the official language, many people working in tourism speak English, especially in hotels, restaurants, and shops. Learning a few basic French phrases is appreciated and will enhance your experience. In more local neighborhoods and markets, English may be less common, but Niçois are generally patient and welcoming to visitors.
What should I wear in Nice?
Nice has a sophisticated yet relaxed style. During the day, smart casual attire is appropriate—think well-fitting clothes, nice shorts or sundresses, and comfortable walking shoes. Evenings can be more dressed up, especially for dinner at nicer restaurants. Bring layers as the mistral wind can occasionally make evenings cooler, even in summer.
Are there any day trips from Nice that don't require a car?
Yes, the French Riviera has excellent public transportation making car-free day trips easy. The train connects Nice to Monaco, Menton, Antibes, and Cannes efficiently. Buses serve hilltop villages like Èze, Saint-Paul-de-Vence, and Grasse. Boat services operate to Saint-Tropez and the Lerins Islands during summer months.
What is the tipping etiquette in Nice?
Service charge is included in all restaurant bills in France, so tipping is not obligatory. However, it's customary to leave small change for good service—typically rounding up the bill or leaving 5-10%. For exceptional service, you might leave more. In bars, rounding up to the nearest euro is common practice.
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