Da Nang (In the Best Way)
Real talk from November 2023 · 9 days · ~$680 · infinite mistakes
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How I Ended Up in Da Nang
Honestly? I only came because my friend bailed on me. We were supposed to do the whole “Vietnam bucket list” together – Hanoi, Ha Long, then down south. But she got a new job and couldn’t take time off. I had already booked a non-refundable flight from Taipei to Da Nang (some deal on VietJet, $185 round trip), and I was like, screw it, I’ll go alone.
First impression stepping out of the airport at 10pm? Heat that felt like a wet blanket. Not just hot – thick. And the smell: fish sauce, incense from the taxi stand, and this sweet jasmine from somewhere. Motorbikes everywhere, like ants. I stood there with my backpack, already sweating thru my shirt, and this old dude in a white Γ‘o dΓ i smiled at me and said “MΓ΄̣t, hai, ba – welcome Da Nang!” I didn’t even have a SIM card yet.
I’d read about taxi scams, so I tried to use Grab. But my phone was acting up and I ended up haggling with a driver who wanted 250,000 VND to My Khe. I got him down to 180, which I later found out is still like double the Grab price. Day 1: already overpaid. Classic.
The ride from the airport took 15 minutes but felt like an hour. I remember the Dragon Bridge lit up purple, and the river smelled kinda muddy. My homestay was down a tiny alley off VΓ΅ NguyΓͺn GiΓ‘p, and I could hear the ocean – that low rumble. I thought, “ok, maybe this solo thing isn’t a disaster.” Then I couldn’t figure out how to turn on the AC. Took me 20 mins. Found the remote in the drawer. Under a Bible.
The Neighborhoods: Real Talk
π₯ An ThΖ°Ζ‘ng (My Khe beach) – I’d move here tbh
This is where I stayed, and it’s the perfect mix of tourist convenience and actual local life. Street An Thượng 4 – that’s the main drag. At 8am it smells like banh mi and coffee, old ladies sweeping leaves, surf instructors fixing boards. By 8pm it turns into a neon-lit chaos of BBQ smoke, cheap beer, and Korean tourists. I loved it. There’s a graffiti of a bunny wearing a conical hat on the corner of An Thượng 6 – I saw the same bunny three times around town. Inside joke with myself.
HαΊ£i ChΓ’u – across the bridge, more “real” Vietnamese city life. Less English menus, more motorbike repair shops. I walked around here on Sunday morning and it was so quiet. Felt like I was intruding, but in a good way. The cathedral (Pink Church) is overrated unless you’re into wedding photos. I’m not.
π« Skip PhΖ°α»c Mα»Ή if you want charm. It’s just condos and construction. I walked 20 mins to find a coffee shop and ended up at a Highlands Coffee. Which is fine, I guess, but I didn’t fly 2000km for a chain.
SΖ‘n TrΓ peninsula – not really a neighborhood, but half the people stay up there. Honestly, the road is terrifying if you’re not used to Vietnamese traffic. I saw a monkey on the side of the road near the Intercontinental. That was cool. But “Monkey Mountain” felt like a tourist trap name. The actual mountain is beautiful, but the traffic made me clench my butt the whole time.
One evening I took the wrong bus and ended up in HΓ²a XuΓ’n – new urban area, wide empty streets, very Stepford Wives vibe. Totally dead at 6pm. A guard at a gate told me “No taxi, you walk long.” I walked 40 mins to find a bridge back. That area is NOT ready for tourists. But I saw a stunning sunset over the HΓ n River, all pink and orange. So maybe it was worth it.
Food That Made Me Emotional
Look. I’m not a food blogger. I didn’t take photos of every dish with an overhead shot. But I remember every single thing I ate in Da Nang because it messed with my head.
π₯’ MΓ¬ QuαΊ£ng bΓ Vα» – 19 TrαΊ§n BΓ¬nh Trα»ng. I went at 7:30am, jet-lagged, tired. The lady didn’t speak English, just pointed at the bowl. Turmeric noodles, pork, shrimp, a bit of broth, crushed peanuts, herbs. She put a tiny chili on the side and said “Δn Δi”. I ate. And I almost cried. Not exaggerating. The smoke from the charcoal grill next door, the taste of the broth – sweet and savory, and the sesame rice crackers soaked just enough. I paid 35,000 VND. Best $1.50 I’ve ever spent.
The disappointing one: BΓΊn chαΊ£ cΓ‘ at a random stall near the market. I don’t know why it’s hyped. Maybe it was just that day, but the fish cake was chewy and the broth was bland. I added lime, chili, satay – still meh. My host said I should’ve gone to BΓΊn ChαΊ£ CΓ‘ 109 on HoΓ ng Diα»u. Regret.
Best hangover cure (even tho I wasn’t hungover, just exhausted): Phα» ThΓ¬a on LΓͺ DuαΊ©n. They serve it with a giant ladle – literally “spoon pho”. Broth so clear you could read a newspaper through it. I went there three times.
Street food that scared me: BΓ‘nh bΓ¨o (steamed rice cakes) from a cart near the Cham museum. The lady had these tiny plates, and the shrimp floss looked radioactive orange. I thought it would be slimy. But it was DELICIOUS. Chewy, sweet, savory, fish saucy. She laughed at my face when I said “ngon quΓ‘”. Then she gave me another one for free.
Expensive mistake: I walked into a “seafood restaurant” on VΓ΅ NguyΓͺn GiΓ‘p with English menus and pictures. Paid 550,000 for a grilled squid that was definitely frozen. I could hear the ocean, why was the squid not fresh?? Tourists trap, my fault.
What locals ate vs me: At the Mi Quang place, everyone else got the “special” with pork skin and pig blood cake. I was too scared. Day 5 I tried it. It was fine. Not life-changing. But I felt very proud of myself.
Tourist Stuff vs. What Actually Ruled
Skip the Marble Mountains. Seriously. Overrated. I waited 20 mins for the elevator, paid 40k entry, and it was just crowded Chinese tour groups and vendors selling plastic turtles. The marble carving shops at the bottom are cool if you need a 50kg Buddha. But the “mountains” themselves? I climbed up, saw a pagoda, saw a view, got hassled to buy a stone keychain, left. Took 45 mins. My Airbnb host recommended NgΕ© HΓ nh SΖ‘n’s “secret” cave – there’s a small entrance near the back of Thuy Son, but honestly it wasn't worth the dust.
✅ Dragon Bridge breathing fire – okay, this one kinda rules. But go at 8:30pm on Saturday/Sunday. Stand on the side near the helipad, not the bridge itself. I got there at 8:15, found a spot near a bia hΖ‘i, ordered a Saigon Lager (15k). The fire went over our heads – felt the heat. A local kid next to me covered his ears. It’s cheesy but fun. Don’t plan a whole evening around it; just do it and then walk across the bridge at night.
Lady Buddha at Linh Ung Pagoda: it’s impressive, yeah. But the bus dropped me off with 300 other people. I went back at 6am on a Tuesday – motorbike taxi, 80k. The light was this soft gold, and the only sound was bells and waves. THAT was the real thing. Also, free incense.
Thing I found by accident that beat the guidebook: PhΖ°α»c NhΖ‘n urban trail. I was walking aimlessly near the museum and found this narrow lane full of mossy old houses, flowers, a little temple with a giant banyan tree. No tourists. An old man was making bamboo baskets. He didn’t try to sell me anything, just waved. That lane isn’t on any map. It felt like the Da Nang from 30 years ago.
Getting Around: What Google Maps Won't Tell You
Day 2 I tried to take the bus to Hα»i An. Google Maps said “bus 1, then transfer to bus 79.” Simple, right? Wrong. The bus stop on TrΖ°ng Nα»― VΖ°Ζ‘ng had no sign. I waited 30 mins. A woman selling fruit gestured “xe Δi Hα»i An?” and pointed across the street. I crossed. Waited another 20. Finally a yellow bus came, I hopped on, driver said “Hα»i An?” I nodded. He said “50,000”. It was the right bus but I’m pretty sure locals pay 20k. Anyway, an hour later we were in some village. I saw a market, lots of pigs. Not Hα»i An. I asked the driver, he goes “Hα»i An, Hα»i An” and pointed forward. After 2 hours we ended up at a bus depot in VΔ©nh Δiα»n. I had to take a taxi the rest of the way. Waste of morning. But that village market had the best bΓ‘nh xΓ¨o I’ve ever had. So... win?
The ticket machine at Da Nang train station ate my 50k note when I tried to buy a ticket to HuαΊΏ. It just swallowed it. No ticket. I stood there, defeated. A guy in uniform came over, opened the machine, gave me my note back and sold me a ticket manually. Not all heroes wear capes.
Motorbike rental – I didn’t do it. I’m scared, okay? I saw a German dude wipe out on a wet curb near My Khe. But I used “xe Γ΄m” (motorbike taxis) a lot. Negotiate before. I usually paid 20-30k for short trips. A driver named Mr. HΓΉng became my unofficial guide. He didn’t speak much English but we communicated via Google Translate and cigarettes. He took me to a coffee farm in the hills – not a tourist thing. He refused payment, just said “bαΊ‘n bΓ¨” (friend). Still makes me emotional.
Where I Stayed: The Good, Bad, and Weird
Luna Homestay – An Thượng 4, alley 41. Booked on Agoda for $17/night. Photos showed a bright room with balcony. Reality: the balcony faced a brick wall 2 feet away. But the bed had this firm mattress that saved my back. Shower pressure? Non-existent. More of a sad drizzle. But the owner, Ms. HΖ°Ζ‘ng, made breakfast – bΓ‘nh mΓ¬ α»p la with pΓ’tΓ©, and she taught me how to make Vietnamese egg coffee. “You must whisk, whisk, whisk,” she said. I did. It was thick and sweet and I drank it at 8am sweating in 30-degree heat. Worth it.
What you didn’t notice in photos: the rooster. Every morning at 4:45am. Not even a real rooster, a neighbor’s ringtone. Every. Single. Day. I started to find it charming by day 7.
The weird: one night I came back and there was a plate of dragon fruit on my desk with a sticky note: “for healthy”. No name. I think it was the cleaning lady. I never met her.
Price paid: $152 for 9 nights. Worth it? 100% – for the coffee lesson alone.
The Thing That Surprised Me
How much I didn’t miss my phone. I know, sounds like a clichΓ©. But I left my SIM card in the hotel one day by accident and just... didn’t go back to get it. I walked around with a paper map from the homestay. I got lost near the Han River Market, and an old man selling lottery tickets saw me looking confused. He didn’t speak English, I didn’t speak Vietnamese, but he walked me 3 blocks to the bridge and pointed. We didn’t exchange names. I don’t know why that stuck with me.
Also surprising: how many Vietnamese people can't swim. I read that later. Despite being a coastal city, a lot of locals never learn. The rescue flags on My Khe are no joke – I saw a kid get pulled out by a lifeguard. Be careful.
And the constant background music – that song “See TΓ¬nh” by HoΓ ng ThΓΉy Linh. It was EVERYWHERE. In the taxi, the coffee shop, the homestay lady humming it. I hated it day 1. By day 5 I was singing along. Now it’s on my playlist and it instantly brings me back to the smell of fish sauce and humidity.
Money: What I Actually Spent
I tracked every single Δα»ng in my Notes app. Here’s the ugly truth. Used to be cheaper – my friend who went in 2019 paid like 15% less for everything. Inflation hit the bia hΖ‘i, people.
| Category | What I Paid (USD) | Worth It? |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation (9 nights) | $152 | Yep, even with the rooster |
| Food + coffee (average $7/day) | $63 | Cheapest therapy ever |
| Transport (Grab, bus, xe Γ΄m) | $41 | Overpaid on day1, but overall fine |
| Hoi An day trip + bus mistake | $28 | Worth the bÑnh xèo discovery |
| Ba Na Hills ticket (stupid expensive) | $42 | NO. Overrated. Felt like Epcot. |
| Souvenirs (coffee, a lantern, dried snake) | $34 | Dried snake was a mistake |
| Misc (laundry, tips, entry fees) | $19 | Laundry guy charged by kg |
| TOTAL (9 days) | ~$379 | Plus flight $185 = $564 |
I spent way more on coffee than I thought – $23 total. That's like 9 cΓ phΓͺ sα»―a ΔΓ‘s. No regrets.
Mistakes I Made So You Don't Have To
- I packed jeans. Are you kidding me? In November it’s 28°C and 80% humidity. I wore them once and regretted every second. Bring linen, quick-dry stuff. My Uniqlo Airism shirts saved my life.
- “This attraction is closed today” scam. I was walking near the Dragon Bridge and a very friendly guy on a motorbike said “Golden Bridge closed, big holiday, I take you to marble factory cheap.” I almost fell for it. Then I remembered reading about this. I said “no thanks” and he got kinda aggressive. Just ignore and keep walking.
- I didn't bring a raincoat. November is rainy season. I thought “it's just a drizzle.” Then I got caught in a typhoon remnant on Hai Van Pass. Soaked to my underwear. My phone almost died. Buy a $2 plastic poncho from any convenience store. Actually buy two.
- Over-ordered at a seafood place. The menu said “crab 300k”. I thought that was for a full dish. It was per 100g. Ended up with a $35 crab. Tasty but painful.
How It Actually Went: Day by Day
Monday: Meant to go to Marble Mountains. Instead slept until 10 because jet lag + rooster ringtone. Wandered to beach, stepped on a sharp shell, bled for an hour. Ate Mi Quang. Cried. Napped. At night, met an Australian guy at the homestay who said “the food in Hoi An is way better”. Started questioning my life choices.
Tuesday: Rented bicycle (50k/day). Got lost in ΔΓ NαΊ΅ng’s back alleys near the train station. Found a lady selling chΓ¨ – sticky bean dessert with coconut milk. She didn't have a menu. I pointed. Best dessert ever. Cycled 15km accidentally. Sunburnt neck.
Wednesday: Typhoon-ish. Rain sideways. Couldn't leave. Ms. HΖ°Ζ‘ng taught me how to make spring rolls. Ate 8 of them. Watched Vietnamese TV. Understood nothing. It was perfect.
Thursday: Hoi An day. Got the wrong bus, ended up in pig-village, but had incredible bÑnh xèo. Finally reached Hoi An at 3pm. Japanese bridge under renovation (of course). But lanterns at night? Yeah, that lives up to the hype. Bought a lantern, paid 120k, probably triple the price. Don't care.
Friday: “Recovery day”. Sat at a coffee shop for 3 hours, drank coconut coffee, wrote in my journal. Met a Vietnamese-American guy who was visiting his grandmother. He said “Da Nang is my real home.” I get it now.
Saturday: Dragon Bridge fire show. Then got a beer with the Australian guy and two Korean girls from the hostel. Talked about travel, exes, pho. The Korean girls taught us “geonbae!”
Sunday: Tried to go to Cham Museum. It was closed for renovation. Didn't check. Walked to the river instead. Sat on the bank. A kid tried to sell me gum. I bought some. We shared it.
Practical Stuff (Without the Boring Lists)
SCAM DIALOGUE: “Hey, you go to Marble Mountains? Closed today. I take you to my shop, very cheap marble.” I heard this three times. One guy insisted until I said “CΓ΄ng an!” (police). He left. Do not engage.
Health thing: I got a little... um, intestinal distress. From what? Probably the crab. Vietnamese medicine: buy gα»«ng (ginger) from a market, boil with honey. Worked better than the Imodium I brought. The lady at the herb stall didn't even charge me.
Packing regret aside from jeans: I brought three books. Read 30 pages. E-reader or just your phone. Also, no universal power adapter? I had to borrow from Ms. HΖ°Ζ‘ng. Most homestays have them, but bring one to be safe.
Local phrase that saved me: “Bao nhiΓͺu?” (how much) and “ΔαΊ―t quΓ‘” (too expensive). I used “ΔαΊ―t quΓ‘” with a smile and got 20% off a painting. Also “cαΊ£m Ζ‘n” pronounced “gam un” – they appreciate the effort.
Still have questions?
Drop a comment below – I read every single one and I'll try to help if I can. Or if you just wanna talk about Mi Quang.
Last updated: November 2023 · Spotted a mistake? I probably made another one, let me know!
π ΔΓ nαΊ΅ng Ζ‘i, mΓ¬nh nhα» mΓ y
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