La Paz uncovered: A high‑altitude love affair with Bolivia's magnetic capital
Cholita wrestling, cable cars, witches' markets, and the world's most dramatic cityscape
1. Introduction: The city that sits in the sky
The first breath is a shock. You step off the plane at El Alto airport, 4,061 metres above sea level, and the air is so thin it feels like you're breathing through a straw. Your ears pop, your head spins lightly, and then you look down – literally down – at the city sprawled in the bowl of a canyon below. Red‑brick houses cling to cliffs, the snow‑capped peak of Illimani looms on the horizon, and a network of cable cars glides silently over the chaos. This is La Paz, Bolivia: the highest administrative capital on earth, a place where the ordinary rules of geography seem suspended.
I first arrived on a chilly June morning, dizzy and awestruck. Within hours I was sipping coca tea in a colonial courtyard, bargaining for a handmade aguayo in the Witches' Market, and watching cholitas (indigenous Aymara women) in bowler hats and layered polleras stride past with impossible grace. La Paz doesn't just sit at altitude; it lives and breathes a different element. The city is a sensory overload: the screech of brakes on impossibly steep streets, the smell of grilling anticucho (beef heart) from street carts, the flash of colourful textiles against grey concrete. I knew I had landed somewhere utterly unique.
La Paz cradled in its canyon, with the eternal Illimani watching over.
This guide is my attempt to capture that otherworldly energy and give you the tools to navigate it – physically, culturally, and emotionally. You'll learn how to survive the altitude (spoiler: coca leaves help), which neighbourhoods to stay in, how to ride the Mi TelefΓ©rico like a local, and where to find the best salteΓ±as. I'll also share personal stories: the time I got hopelessly lost in the labyrinthine market of El Alto, the evening I watched a lucha libre match where cholitas flew from the ropes, and the sunrise I'll never forget, viewed from a mountain bike descending the World's Most Dangerous Road. La Paz will challenge you, exhaust you, and ultimately enchant you. Let's dive in.
2. Why Visit: The city of extremes
Why travel to a place where you run out of breath walking up a slight incline? Because there's nowhere else like it. The landscapes are mind‑bending: the city tumbles down a gorge, withθ΄«ζ°ηͺ and mansions stacked vertiginously. Above, the altiplano stretches to the horizon, dotted with llama herds and the ruins of ancient civilisations. Below, subtropical valleys (Yungas) begin, their cloud forests dripping with humidity. In a single day, you can descend from 4,000m to 1,000m – a journey through climate zones that feels like travelling from the Arctic to the tropics.
Cultural heritage? Bolivia is the most indigenous country in South America, and La Paz is its heart. Aymara and Quechua traditions infuse every aspect of life. You'll see cholitas in traditional dress running modern businesses, and you'll hear the haunting sound of panpipes at festivals. The city's markets are living museums: the Mercado de las Brujas (Witches' Market) sells dried llama foetuses (for offerings to Pachamama), herbs, and talismans alongside mobile phone cases.
Gastronomy is a revelation: Andean ingredients (quinoa, chuΓ±o, llama) meet Spanish and Amazonian influences. You'll eat peanut soup (sajta), spicy chicken (picante de pollo), and the ubiquitous salteΓ±a (a juicy baked empanada). And then there are the unique experiences – riding the world's highest cable car system (Mi TelefΓ©rico) as a daily commute, mountain biking down the Yungas Road (the famous "Death Road"), or watching cholita wrestling, where costumed women perform high‑flying moves. What makes La Paz different from other Andean cities? It's the raw, unpolished energy. This isn't a colonial postcard; it's a living, breathing metropolis where indigenous culture isn't a relic but a dynamic force. Solo travelers love the hostels and adventure tours; couples find the sunsets over Illimani impossibly romantic; families can handle the altitude with care. For me, the personal magic happened during Alasitas, a festival where miniature versions of things you desire are blessed – I bought a tiny house and a university degree, and years later, both came true. That's La Paz: it makes you believe in magic.
3. When to Visit: Dry, wet, and festivals
La Paz has two main seasons: dry (May to October) and wet (November to April). The dry season is the most popular – sunny days, cool nights, and crystal‑clear skies. It's the best time for trekking, mountain biking, and viewing Illimani. June to August are peak months, with the Gran Poder festival (May/June) and the Aymara New Year (June 21) at Tiwanaku. Prices are higher, but the weather is reliable.
The wet season brings afternoon rains, but mornings are often bright. The mountains are greener, and the Altiplano has a stark beauty. January and February are the wettest; some tours (like Death Road) may be affected. However, this is also carnival time (February/March) – not as famous as Oruro, but La Paz has parades and water fights. The rainy season is low season for tourism, so you'll find bargains on flights and accommodation.
Shoulder months (April, October, November) offer a good compromise. I visited in late October: sunny days, brief showers, and fewer crowds. Temperatures: daytime 15–20°C, nights near freezing in winter, milder in summer. Remember that the sun at this altitude is fierce – UV levels are extreme. Pack layers, sunscreen, and lip balm. No matter when you go, be prepared for sudden changes. My tip: aim for May or September for ideal weather and fewer tourists.
4. How to Get There: Air, bus, and the road less travelled
The main gateway is El Alto International Airport (LPB), one of the highest in the world at 4,061m. It receives flights from Lima, Cusco, Santiago, SΓ£o Paulo, and Panama (Copa Airlines), plus domestic connections from Santa Cruz, Cochabamba, and Uyuni. Airlines: Boliviana de AviaciΓ³n (BoA), Amaszonas, LATAM, and Avianca. From the US/Europe, you'll likely connect through Lima, BogotΓ‘, or SΓ£o Paulo. Round‑trip fares from the US average $600–900; from Europe, $800–1,200. Book 2–3 months ahead.
Alternative: long‑distance buses from Peru (Cusco, Puno) or Chile (Arica, San Pedro de Atacama). The journey from Cusco takes about 12 hours; from Puno, 6 hours. Buses are comfortable but the altitude can be tough. Budget tip: flying into Lima and then taking a bus to La Paz is cheaper but time‑consuming.
Visa requirements: Citizens of the US, Canada, Australia, and many European countries do NOT need a visa for tourism (stays up to 90 days). However, some nationalities require a visa (check with a Bolivian consulate). Upon arrival at LPB, you'll clear immigration quickly. To get to the city centre (about 30 minutes), taxis cost $10–15. Many hotels offer airport pick‑up. There's also a public bus (PumaKatari) that goes to the centre for a fraction of the price – but with luggage it can be tricky. For regional travel, La Paz has a central bus terminal with connections to Copacabana (Lake Titicaca), Uyuni, and beyond.
Insider tip: if you're prone to altitude sickness, consider spending a night in a lower‑altitude place like Copacabana (3,800m) first, or arrive in La Paz and take it very easy for 24 hours.
5. Accommodation: Where to sleep in the vertical city
La Paz's neighbourhoods are defined by altitude. Here's a breakdown:
- Sopocachi – Trendy, bohemian, mid‑level (3,600m). Full of cafes, bars, and boutiques. Great for young travelers and couples. Mid‑range: Ritz Apart Hotel (comfortable, good breakfast). Budget: Adventures Inn (hostel with tours).
- Centro / San Jorge – The heart of the city, near Plaza Murillo, government buildings, and museums. Upscale hotels, fine dining. Luxury: Atix Hotel (boutique, stunning views). Mid‑range: Hotel Sagarnaga (traditional, near the Witches' Market).
- Miraflores – Residential, slightly lower (3,500m), quieter. Good for families and those seeking calm. Mid‑range: Hotel Presidente.
- El Alto – The sprawling city above the canyon. Not recommended for tourists, but you might visit for markets and views. Stay only if you have local contacts.
- Zona Sur (Calacoto, etc.) – Wealthy, lower (3,200m), modern malls and restaurants. Best for acclimatisation if you struggle with altitude. Luxury: Camino Real. Also many Airbnb apartments.
Booking strategies: reserve ahead for dry season (June–August). For unique stays, consider a hostel with a terrace – the views are incredible. Also, some guesthouses in Sopocachi offer homestay experiences. Insider tip: if you arrive breathless, ask for a room on a lower floor – every stair counts. I once stayed in a hostel in Sopocachi with a rooftop looking over the entire city; watching the sunset with a cup of coca tea remains a highlight.
6. Things to Do / Top Attractions
Cholita wrestling: where tradition meets spectacular showmanship.
Iconic Landmarks
Plaza Murillo – the main square with the Presidential Palace and Cathedral. Look for the statue of Pedro Domingo Murillo. San Francisco Church – a beautiful baroque mestizo church; climb the tower for views. Mi TelefΓ©rico (cable cars) – not just transport but an attraction. Take the red line from the centre to El Alto for jaw‑dropping panoramas. The yellow line goes to Zona Sur. Ride at sunset.
Cultural Experiences
Mercado de las Brujas (Witches' Market) – narrow alleyways lined with stalls selling herbs, soaps, and llama foetuses. Chat with the vendors (ask permission before photos). Cholita wrestling – on Sundays, head to El Alto's Multifunctional Arena for a spectacle of costumed women wrestling. It's part sport, part theatre. Museo de la Coca – learn about the sacred leaf's history and uses. Museo Nacional de ArqueologΓa (Tiwanaku) – artefacts from the pre‑Inca civilisation. For a deep dive, take a day trip to the Tiwanaku ruins.
Natural Wonders
Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) – a strange landscape of clay spires and canyons just 20 minutes from Zona Sur. Hike the trails at sunset. Chacaltaya – a former ski resort at 5,400m, now a mountain lodge with surreal views. You can drive up. Condoriri trek – multi‑day hikes among peaks. For an easier dose, just gaze at Illimani (6,439m) from any high point.
Hidden Gems
Mercado Lanza – a bustling food market with cheap, delicious meals. Calle JaΓ©n – a cobbled colonial lane with tiny museums (costume, precious metals). El Alto market (Thursdays and Sundays) – the largest open‑air market in South America. Go with a local guide; it's chaotic but unforgettable. Mirador Killi Killi – a free viewpoint with a 360° panorama of the city bowl.
Day Trips
Tiwanaku – the ancient capital of a pre‑Inca empire, with impressive stonework. Join a tour or take a bus. Lake Titicaca (Copacabana) – 4 hours by bus. Stay overnight, visit the Isla del Sol. Yungas Road (Death Road) – mountain biking down the famous cliffside track is a rite of passage. Book with a reputable company. Chulumani – a weekend trip to the subtropical Yungas, with coffee plantations and cloud forest. Personal anecdote: I biked Death Road, and the adrenaline mixed with the sheer beauty of waterfalls plunging past us is something I'll never forget. Also, I stumbled upon a tiny museum of musical instruments in Calle JaΓ©n – a quiet gem.
7. Food and Drink: Andean bounty and street‑food soul
Bolivian cuisine is underrated, and La Paz is its showcase. Start with salteΓ±as – baked empanadas filled with juicy meat, olives, and egg. The best are at SalteΓ±erΓa La Paz or El Paso. anticuchos are grilled beef heart skewers with spicy peanut sauce – try them at a street stall in Sopocachi at night. Pique macho is a gut‑busting platter of beef, sausage, fries, and boiled egg – share it. Fricase (pork stew with hominy) is a weekend breakfast dish.
For a sit‑down meal, Gustu is the fine‑dining star, using Amazonian ingredients. Popular Cocina Boliviana offers a gourmet tasting menu at a fraction of the price. Mercado Lanza has comedores (eateries) where you can get a full lunch for $3. Try chuΓ±o (freeze‑dried potatoes) in soups – an acquired taste. Vegetarians: quinoa soups, fresh cheese, and llajwa (spicy tomato sauce).
Drinks: Api is a warm, thick purple corn drink with spices, perfect for cold nights. Mocochinchi is a sweet peach compote drink. Chicha (fermented corn beer) is traditional, but beware of homemade versions. Coffee culture is growing; try CafΓ© Copacabana or CafΓ© Typica. For something strong, singani (grape brandy) is the national spirit – try a Chufly (singani with ginger ale and lemon).
Markets: Mercado RodrΓguez for fruit and veg; Mercado de las Brujas for snacks. My most memorable meal was a bowl of sopa de manΓ (peanut soup) at a tiny stall in Mercado Lanza – rich, warming, and costing less than a dollar.
8. Practical Tips: Surviving and thriving at altitude
Altitude: Take it seriously. Spend your first day resting, drink plenty of coca tea, avoid alcohol, and eat light. Soroche (altitude sickness) can hit anyone – symptoms include headache, nausea. Acetazolamide (Diamox) can help; consult your doctor. Hotels have oxygen if needed.
Safety: La Paz is relatively safe but watch for pickpockets in markets and on crowded buses. Avoid El Alto alone at night. Scams: fake tour agencies, overcharging taxis. Use radio taxis or apps like Uber (limited).
Local transport: Mi TelefΓ©rico is safe, cheap, and scenic. Buses (PumaKatari) are modern and efficient. Taxis are inexpensive – agree on fare beforehand. Minibuses (micros) are chaotic but an adventure.
Costs: Budget: $30–40/day (hostel, street food, local buses). Mid‑range: $60–80/day (hotel, nice meals, some tours). Luxury: $120+. ATMs abundant but may charge fees; carry cash (bolivianos). Credit cards accepted in upscale places, but markets and taxis need cash. Tipping: 10% in restaurants if service not included; tour guides $5–10/day.
Communication: Spanish essential. Learn basics: "¿cuΓ‘nto?", "gracias". Aymara phrases like "yuspagara" (thank you) earn smiles. SIM cards: Entel or Tigo at the airport.
Health: Tap water not safe – drink bottled. Sunscreen, lip balm, moisturiser (dry air). Layers, thermal underwear, fleece, waterproof jacket. Good walking shoes. Altitude meds.
Etiquette: Ask before photographing cholitas. Dress modestly in churches. Tipping not mandatory but appreciated.
Emergency: 110 (police), 118 (ambulance).
9. Suggested Itinerary: 3, 5 or 7 days
Option A: 3-day express
Day 1 (acclimatise) – Arrive, rest. Gentle walk around Plaza Murillo, San Francisco Church. Afternoon: Witches' Market and Calle JaΓ©n. Dinner at a traditional restaurant.
Day 2 (cables & viewpoints) – Morning: Mi TelefΓ©rico (red line to El Alto, walk around viewpoint). Afternoon: Valle de la Luna. Evening: watch cholita wrestling (if Sunday) or enjoy a peΓ±a show.
Day 3 (culture & food) – Mercado Lanza for breakfast, then Museo de la Coca and Museo de EtnografΓa. Afternoon: take the yellow line to Zona Sur for a different perspective. Farewell dinner at Gustu.
Option B: 5-day comprehensive
Day 1–3 as above. Day 4: Day trip to Tiwanaku ruins (archaeological marvel). Day 5: Mountain bike Death Road (full‑day tour) – an adrenaline climax. Rest in the evening.
Option C: 7-day deep dive
Day 1–5 as above. Day 6: Overnight trip to Copacabana (Lake Titicaca). Visit Isla del Sol. Day 7: Return to La Paz, relax, visit any missed spots (like the Chacaltaya excursion). Alternatively, swap Death Road for a Yungas cultural trip to Chulumani. Always listen to your body – altitude might demand a slower pace.
10. Conclusion: The city that stays in your lungs
I've been to La Paz four times, and each time I leave with a piece of it lodged in my heart – or maybe my lungs, since the thin air leaves a permanent mark. This city doesn't just show you sights; it teaches you to breathe differently, to move slower, to appreciate the resilience of its people. The cholitas who run markets and wrestling rings, the cable cars that connect communities across chasms, the mountains that watch over it all – they form a tapestry unlike any other.
You'll leave with sore muscles from the altitude, a thousand photos of impossibly steep streets, and probably a few woven textiles. But you'll also carry the memory of the light at dusk, when Illimani turns pink and the city lights begin to twinkle like earthbound stars. I hope this guide helps you navigate the practicalities so you can lose yourself in the wonder. So book that ticket, chew some coca leaves, and let La Paz work its high‑altitude magic. And when you return (because you will), find me online and tell me about the moment the city stole your breath – figuratively this time.
¿Listo para la altura? (Ready for the altitude?) Share your La Paz stories below, subscribe for more Andean adventures, or ask me anything – I'm here to help.
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