Nha Trang (In the Best Way)
Real talk from August 2023 · 10 days · ~$625 · infinite sunscreen failures
π Jump to... (or don't, I'm not a cop)
How I Ended Up in Nha Trang
Honestly? I only came here because I missed my train to Da Lat. Not even joking. I was in Saigon, kinda burnt out, and I booked a sleeper bus to Da Lat. Showed up at the pickup point at 7pm—except it was 7pm the NEXT day. I'd misread the ticket. So I'm standing on Pham Ngu Lao with my 20kg backpack, ready to cry, and this random Swedish dude I met at a pho stall said “Nha Trang is way better anyway, I'm going tonight.” So I said screw it, bought a ticket on the same bus, and 10 hours later I was here.
First impression stepping off the bus at 5:30am? The smell. Not bad—just intense. Fish, diesel, night jasmine, and this salty-sweet rot from the morning market. The sky was this pale peach color, and the humidity hit me like a warm, wet towel. I couldn't even lift my backpack; my shirt was soaked in 2 minutes. I sat on a plastic stool outside a bΓ‘nh mΓ¬ cart and just… existed. The lady running it handed me a iced coffee without me asking. I think she felt sorry for me.
What went wrong immediately? I tried to use the ATM at a Vietcombank. It ate my card. Not the money—the whole card. Just swallowed it and made this sad beep. I didn't even have cash for a coffee (but she already gave me coffee, bless her). Some guy in a xe Γ΄m vest offered to “help” for 200k. I said no, went inside, and a teller got my card back in 30 seconds. Free. I overtipped her 100k 'cause I was so relieved. She looked confused but took it.
The Neighborhoods: Real Talk
π Lα»c Thα» – where I basically lived
I accidentally picked a hostel in Lα»c Thα», the strip between the beach and the train tracks. And honestly? It's the only place I'd stay again. It's not fancy—it's a tangle of alleys, seafood BBQ smoke starting at 4pm, and Russian signboards everywhere. At 8am the beach across the street is already full of Vietnamese aerobics groups in matching visors. At 8pm the whole block smells like grilled scallops with green onion oil. There's a specific graffiti on the corner of HoΓ ng Hoa ThΓ‘m and Biα»t Thα»±: a fat cat wearing a diving mask. I saw that same cat sticker on three different lamp posts. I decided it's the unofficial mascot of Nha Trang.
XΓ³m Mα»i – okay, if you want “authentic” without tourists, this is it. But it's kinda far from the beach, and the alleyways are so narrow you have to press against the wall when a motorbike comes. I got lost there at dusk and it was magical. Old ladies burning incense, a guy welding something in front of his house, kids playing badminton with a frayed racket. But the coffee? There's a spot on Nguyα» n Thiα»n ThuαΊt called Cafe Co GiΓ —no English sign, just a lady with a phin filter. 12,000 VND. Black. Bitter. Perfect. Locals only.
π« Vinpearl side of the bridge? I mean, it's fine if you like gated communities and golf carts. I walked over the TrαΊ§n PhΓΊ bridge once. It felt like a different country. Sterile. No thanks.
PhΖ°Ζ‘ng SΓ i – the backpacker ghetto, sorta. Lots of cheap hostels, bars with happy hour all day, and guys trying to sell you weed. I stayed one night there and the bass from the club shook my bed until 3am. But the bΓΊn riΓͺu at 5am on the corner of Sao Biα»n? Unreal. So I can't totally trash it.
Anyway, the vibe changes block by block. TrαΊ§n PhΓΊ beachfront is all high‑rise resorts and manicured palm trees. Two streets inland, it's motorbike repair shops and wet markets. I liked the messy part.
Food That Made Me Emotional
I didn't expect to cry over noodles. But here we are.
The disappointment: LαΊ©u cΓ‘ Δuα»i (stingray hotpot) at a recommended place on Nguyα» n Thiα»n ThuαΊt. Maybe I ordered wrong, but the broth was super sour and the stingray had a weird gelatinous texture. My Vietnamese friend later said I should've gone to QuΓ‘n α»t on YαΊΏt KiΓͺu. Noted.
Hangover cure? Didn't drink much, but the bΓ‘nh canh chαΊ£ cΓ‘ from a cart near XΓ³m Mα»i market—thick tapioca noodles, opaque broth, crab cake. I ate it at 7am after a terrible sleep. Instant resurrection. 25k.
Street food that scared me: bΓ‘nh trΓ‘ng nΖ°α»ng (Vietnamese “pizza”). This lady had a charcoal grill and she was spreading quail egg, dried shrimp, mayo on a rice paper. It looked like a science experiment. I was hesitant. Then she added a slice of processed cheese and I almost ran. But I tried it. It was like a warm, crunchy, savory crepe. I ate three. 15k each. She called me “bαΊ‘n Δn giα»i” (you eat well). I still think about it.
Expensive mistake: I walked into a “seafood by the beach” place with an English menu and no prices. Ordered a grilled lobster. They brought it out, it was tiny, and the bill came—790,000 VND. For a lobster that size? I paid, but felt robbed. Later I saw locals eating at a sidewalk stall two blocks away with the same size lobster for 350k. I learned my lesson: avoid places with laminated menus and empty tables.
What locals ate vs tourists: At every seafood joint, the locals ordered the small clams with lemongrass (nghΓͺu hαΊ₯p sαΊ£) and the fried squid with salt and pepper. Tourists all grabbed the lobster. I switched to clams. Cheaper, tastier, and I didn't feel like a mark.
Tourist Stuff vs. What Actually Ruled
Skip VinWonders. Seriously. Overpriced, overrated, feels like a Vietnamese Disneyland but without the charm. I paid 880,000 VND (about $36) for the cable car + park ticket. The cable car views of the bay are gorgeous—I'll give it that. But once you're on the island, it's just water slides, arcade games, and crowded food courts. I waited 45 minutes for a roller coaster that lasted 90 seconds. If you want a fun day, take a boat tour to the lesser-known islands instead. Cheaper, actual snorkeling, and you get to eat fresh seafood on the boat.
✅ Po Nagar Cham Towers – okay, these actually rule. But go at 7:30am, not 11am. I went early and had the whole upper platform to myself. The brickwork, the incense, the sound of the river below—it felt ancient in a real way, not a curated way. A nun in orange robes smiled at me and gave me a mandarin orange. I'm not religious but I felt something.
Long SΖ‘n Pagoda – the giant white Buddha on the hill. It's fine, but the mosaic dragon is kinda crumbling. Also, the tile steps are slippery as hell. I saw a guy almost eat it. There's a smaller, less-visited temple behind it with a reclining Buddha. No crowds. That's the better spot.
Thing I found by accident that beat the guidebook: HΓ²n Chα»ng (the Husband Rock). It's this rocky outcrop on the northeast side, and supposedly it's a tourist spot but I went at sunset and there were maybe five people there. The waves crash against these huge granite boulders. I sat and watched the light turn the water gold. No entrance fee. A lady sold me grilled corn from a cart. 10k. Perfect evening.
Getting Around: What Google Maps Won't Tell You
Day 2. I wanted to go to BΓ£i DΓ i beach, about 30km north. Google Maps said “take bus 3.” I waited at a stop on TrαΊ§n PhΓΊ for 25 minutes. No bus. I asked a local woman selling sugarcane juice. She pointed across the street and said “bus 3, but wait there.” I crossed. Waited 20 more minutes. Finally a minivan with “Nha Trang – SΓ’n bay” on the windshield pulled over. I asked “BΓ£i DΓ i?” Driver nodded. I got on. Paid 30k. Took 40 minutes. Not bus 3. I still don't know what bus 3 is.
The scam attempt: A xe Γ΄m driver near Cho Dam market told me “Po Nagar closed, I take you to marble workshop, very cheap.” I literally laughed and said “I've read about this.” He looked annoyed and drove off. Second time I heard that line in Vietnam. So yeah, it's a thing.
Walking: better in the morning (before 9am) or after 4pm. Midday is brutal. I walked from Lα»c Thα» to the train station at 1pm once. Almost passed out. But you notice more on foot—like the tiny shrine on Phan Chu Trinh that's stuffed with fresh marigolds every morning.
Motorbike rental: I chickened out. Traffic here is chaotic but somehow works. My friend rented one for 120k/day and loved it. But he also got a 400k fine for not having an international permit. The police set up checkpoints near the bridge. Keep that in mind.
Where I Stayed: The Good, Bad, and Weird
Mojzo Inn – Lα»c Thα», alley 24. Booked on Hostelworld for $11/night. The photos showed a clean dorm with pastel walls. Reality: the AC worked too well—I slept with a sweater and socks. The shower had decent pressure but the hot water was a lie; it was always lukewarm at best. But the owner, Ms. DuyΓͺn, made fresh coconut coffee every morning and gave me a map with hand‑drawn food spots. She told me “No eat where have menu English. Eat where stool small.” I followed that rule religiously.
What you didn't notice in photos: the karaoke bar across the alley. Every night from 7pm to 10:30pm, someone sang covers of “My Way” and Vietnamese ballads. Off-key, full volume. At first I was annoyed. By day 3 I was humming along. By day 5 I sang along under my breath. It became part of the rhythm.
The weird: one morning I woke up and there was a tiny origami crane on my pillow. No note. I asked Ms. DuyΓͺn; she just smiled and said “maybe house fairy.” I still have that crane.
Price paid: $110 for 10 nights. Worth it? Absolutely. I'd stay there again just for the coffee and the fairy.
The Thing That Surprised Me
How many Russians live here. Like, entire neighborhoods with Cyrillic signs. I heard more Russian than English in some restaurants. It's not a complaint—it was just unexpected. I had to use Google Translate for a menu in a bakery because everything was in Russian and Vietnamese. The lady behind the counter said “privet” and I panicked and said “xin chΓ o” and we both laughed. There's a whole “Little Moscow” vibe around Nguyα» n Thα» Minh Khai. It made me realize Nha Trang is a global weird mix—Vietnamese, Russian, Korean, Aussie surfers. Kinda cool.
Also, I didn't expect to feel so safe walking alone at night. The main beachfront is lit up, families are out, old ladies selling fruit, couples on motorbikes. I walked back at 11pm from a coffee shop and never felt sketched out. That surprised me.
And the rain. August is supposed to be dry season but we had two days of torrential downpour. Streets flooded up to my ankles. But everyone just kept going—motorbikes splashing through, markets open, people selling ponchos. No one panicked. It was just life.
π΅ Song that followed me: “Δi Δu ΔΖ°a Δi” by BΓch PhΖ°Ζ‘ng. Heard it in a taxi, then in a vape shop, then in the hostel lobby. It's now my Nha Trang theme song.
Money: What I Actually Spent
I tracked everything in my Notes app. Everything's gone up since 2019—my friend said she paid 25k for bΓΊn chαΊ£ cΓ‘; I paid 40k. Inflation is real, y'all.
| Category | What I Paid (USD) | Worth It? |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation (10 nights) | $110 | 100% – coffee and crane included |
| Food + coffee (avg $7/day) | $72 | I'd pay double for that bΓΊn chαΊ£ cΓ‘ |
| Transport (Grab, bus, boat) | $48 | Boat tour worth it, lobster scam not |
| VinWonders ticket | $36 | NO. Would rather have eaten 10 bΓ‘nh trΓ‘ng nΖ°α»ng |
| Snorkeling tour (3 islands) | $22 | Hell yes – saw a puffer fish |
| Souvenirs (coffee, a ceramic whale) | $28 | Ceramic whale heavy in my bag, zero regrets |
| Misc (laundry, tips, entrance fees) | $15 | Laundry by weight – 40k for 3kg |
| TOTAL (10 days) | ~$331 | Plus flight from HCMC $13 = $344 |
I spent $28 on coffee. That's like 14 cΓ phΓͺ sα»―a ΔΓ‘s. No apologies.
Mistakes I Made So You Don't Have To
- I packed a leather jacket. In August. In Nha Trang. I thought “oh, evenings might be cool.” They were not. It sat in my hostel locker, mocking me. Brought it only for the bus ride back.
- I didn't bring reef-safe sunscreen. I wore regular sunscreen and the ocean felt slimy. Also, it's bad for coral. The snorkel guide gave me a lecture (deserved). Buy the biodegradable stuff.
- Overpaid for a “private boat” at the beach. A guy offered me a “special price, just for you” – 800k for a 2-hour trip. I said no, walked 50 meters, and found a group tour for 250k. Always walk away.
- Ignored the “no motorbike on sidewalk” signs. I was walking and a cop whistled at me. For walking on the sidewalk? No, for parking my rented bike half on the curb. I didn't even have a bike. He thought I was the owner. I just pointed at a random bike and walked fast. Avoid sidewalks near the train station.
How It Actually Went: Day by Day
Day 1 (Aug 3): Arrived 5:30am, card got eaten by ATM, ate bΓ‘nh mΓ¬, slept 4 hours. Wandered beach, stepped on a cigarette butt, sat in shock. Met a Canadian guy at Mojzo who said the mud baths are “overrated.” Canceled my mud bath plan.
Day 2: Meant to do VinWonders. Slept thru alarm ‘cause I stayed up talking to Ms. DuyΓͺn about the Vietnam war. Went to Po Nagar at 4pm instead. No regrets. Bought a dragon fruit from a kid, he charged me 20k, later saw it's 15k at market. Whatever.
Day 3: Snorkeling tour. Shared boat with 20 Koreans. Saw a puffer fish, got sunburned on my knees only (why knees??). Ate lunch on the boat – whole fried fish, rice, spring rolls. Tasted better than any restaurant.
Day 4: Rain. All day. Went to Cho Dam market, bought a ceramic whale and a rain poncho. Got lost in the labyrinth of stalls. A vendor gave me free sampan. I think she felt bad I looked so lost.
Day 5: BΓ£i DΓ i beach. The water was so clear I could see my toes. Read half a book, fell asleep, got burnt again. At night, met a Vietnamese-American guy who was tracing his family roots. We shared a beer and he said “Nha Trang is where my grandparents met.” I felt like an intruder in the best way.
Day 6: “Recovery” – stayed in, drank 3 coconut coffees, wrote postcards. Couldn't find a post office. Gave up.
Day 7: HΓ²n Chα»ng at sunset. Grilled corn. Almost cried. The light was that specific honey color. A local couple asked me to take their photo, then took mine. It was blurry. I love it.
Day 8: Tried to find “secret” waterfall near Suα»i TiΓͺn. Got lost in the hills, met a farmer who let me sit on his porch and drink water. No waterfall, but saw a baby water buffalo. Worth it.
Day 9: Cooking class. Made fresh spring rolls and phα». My rolling technique was trash. The instructor said “you try hard, that's good.” I think that's Vietnamese for “you're hopeless.”
Day 10: Last morning. Ate bΓΊn chαΊ£ cΓ‘ at 109 one more time. The auntie recognized me and gave me extra fish cake. I almost lost it. Went to the airport, bought a Trung NguyΓͺn coffee pack. Already planning to come back.
Practical Stuff (Without the Boring Lists)
SCAM DIALOGUE: “Hey madam, Po Nagar closed. I take you to nice place, very beautiful, you buy nothing.” I heard this near the Ponagar entrance. The guy was persistent. I said “CαΊ£m Ζ‘n, khΓ΄ng cαΊ§n” firmly and he left. They target solo travelers. Just keep walking.
Health thing: I drank tap water by accident (brushed my teeth with it) and my stomach gurgled for two days. Nothing major, but pack charcoal tablets. Pharmacies here sell “Carbogast” – 20k for 10 pills. Worked fast.
Packing regret #472: I brought a heavy DSLR. Used it twice. My phone took perfectly fine photos. The weight wasn't worth it. Also, the humidity fogged the lens constantly.
Local phrase that opened doors: “Cho tΓ΄i mα»t cΓ‘i nhΖ° ngΖ°α»i Δα»a phΖ°Ζ‘ng” – “Give me one like the locals.” I used this at a seafood stall and got the 200k crab instead of the 500k one. The vendor laughed and said “you speak Vietnamese very funny.” But she gave me the local price.
Oh, and download the Grab app before you go. I didn't, and my US App Store wouldn't let me download Vietnamese version without switching regions. Had to borrow a friend's phone. Get it sorted before you land.
Still have questions?
Drop a comment below – I read every single one. Even the mean ones. (But especially the nice ones.)
Last updated: August 2023 · Spotted a mistake? I probably made another one. Let me know.
π nha trang Ζ‘i, mΓ¬nh nhα» bΓΊn chαΊ£ cΓ‘ quΓ‘
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