Vũng Tàu (In the Best Way)
Real talk from July 2024 · 5 days · $218 · so many sunburns
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How I Ended Up in Vũng Tàu
Honestly? I only came because Saigon was melting my brain. July in HCMC – the rain hits at 4pm like someone emptied a bucket, then the sun comes back and turns everything into a steam room. I was sharing a phở with my friend Linh and she goes, “You’re moping. Go to Vũng Tàu. It’s cheaper than Đà Lạt and you can be there in 2 hours.” So I booked a bus ticket on my phone while still chewing. That’s how I roll.
First impression stepping off the bus at Bãi Trước (Front Beach) – the smell hit first. Not fishy, but that particular blend of sea salt, overripe mangosteens from a nearby cart, and bus diesel. And the humidity? Thicker than my grandma’s gravy. I immediately sweat thru my linen shirt. Within 3 minutes a xe ôm driver yelled “hey madam, you need hotel?” I said no. He followed me for half a block. I said “không, cảm ơn” – he smiled and peeled off. That’s Vũng Tàu: persistent but not aggressive.
What went wrong immediately? I assumed my homestay was near the beach. It was not. It was up a 15-degree incline on Trương Công Định, and I dragged my roller bag over crumbling sidewalks while motorbikes beeped like I was a moving slalom. Also my SIM card didn’t work for the first hour. I stood under a tree, sweating, watching a woman grill bắp nếp (sticky corn) and I thought – this is fine. Everything’s gonna be fine. And it was. Eventually.
The Neighborhoods: Real Talk
Bãi Trước (Front Beach) – this is where everyone hangs. At 8am, it’s retirees doing tai chi and aunties selling bánh mì from woven baskets. By 8pm, it’s a neon-lit promenade of families, couples, and those swan paddle boats. I walked the entire strip every night. There’s this one graffiti tag – a stylized phoenix with the word “KHOA” – that I saw on three different buildings. It became my unofficial guidepost. If I saw Khoa, I knew I wasn’t lost.
OKAY, NOW RANT: Bãi Sau (Back Beach) – specifically the stretch near the Imperial Hotel? It’s fine, I guess, if you like overpriced coconut water and guys trying to sell you a jet ski rental every 30 seconds. The water is cleaner than Front Beach, sure, but the vibe is… resort-generic. Plus at 5pm the loudspeakers from the outdoor bars blast “See Tình” by Hoàng Thùy Linh on repeat. I love that song but NOT six times an hour. Skip the central part. Walk 1km north toward the less-developed end – there’s a quiet strip with just a few fishing boats and an old lady selling boiled snails. She doesn't speak English. I pointed, she gave me a bowl with chili lemongrass. 20k. That’s the real Back Beach.
I also accidentally wandered into Phường 1 – the area around the Vũng Tàu market. Honestly, it’s chaotic and narrow, motorbikes on the sidewalk, raw meat hanging in the open. I kinda loved it at 7am. Not for everyone, but I bought a dragon fruit for 8,000đ and the vendor laughed at my pronunciation of “bao nhiêu”. She mimed “cứng quá” (too hard) and picked a riper one. That’s the thing – locals are brutally honest with fruit.
Oh, and I have to trash Núi Lớn (Big Mountain) residential area near the cable car. It’s just… uphill and kinda dead after 9pm. If you’re not staying at a resort there, it’s a hike. I walked up once to see the sunset and regretted it – stray dogs, no sidewalks, and a very aggressive rooster. But the view from the top? That’s later.
Food That Made Me Emotional
1. Bánh khọt – Cây Me, 24 Lê Lợi. Fight me, this is the best bánh khọt in town. Tiny little crispy pancakes with shrimp, served with a mountain of herbs and a dipping sauce that’s part fish sauce, part magic. I went three times. The lady, Cô Hạnh, remembered my order on day 2. “Không hành, nhiều mỡ hành?” (no spring onion, extra scallion oil). She winked. I paid 45k for a plate of 12. I almost cried into the fish sauce. It was that good.
2. Bún mắm – 52 Trương Công Định. A friend’s cousin recommended this place – looks like someone’s garage, blue plastic stools, a cat sleeping on the rice cooker. I ordered bún mắm with thịt quay (roast pork) and the broth hit me like a warm blanket. Funky, deep, fermented fish paste but balanced with lemongrass. I had never tried it before. Now I dream about it. 40k.
3. Disappointment that still hurts: A seafood place on Thùy Vân with a neon crab sign. I was tired, it was raining, I gave in. Ordered “ghẹ hấp” (steamed crab). They brought out a tiny, sad crab and charged me 280k. Tasted like nothing. I later found out the place is notorious for tourist pricing. Should’ve gone to the crab market near Cầu Đá. Regrets.
4. Street food that scared then delighted: Ốc len xào dừa – baby snails stir-fried with coconut milk and lemongrass. I saw a group of teens devouring it near the Vũng Tàu statue. Looked like a bowl of shells and weird noodles. I sat down, pointed, and the vendor handed me a toothpick. I fumbled. A 14-year-old girl showed me how to twirl and suck. It was sweet, spicy, like nothing I’d eaten. 25k. I went back the next night just for that.
5. Expensive mistake: The “seafood hotpot for two” at a beachfront restaurant. 450k. The broth was MSG water and the squid was rubbery. The view was nice, I guess, but I could’ve had three banh khot feasts for that. Never again.
Tourist Stuff vs. What Actually Ruled
🔥 unpopular opinion The Jesus Statue? Overrated. Sorry, not sorry. It’s a 32m tall Jesus on Núi Nhỏ, arms outstretched like he’s blessing the ocean. The view from the top is fine, but you have to climb 800+ steps in 90% humidity, and the guards make you wear a robe if your shoulders are bare. I saw the light hit the statue at 4:30pm – beautiful, sure – but I spent more time wiping sweat off my phone than appreciating it. Also, the “holy” vibe is slightly undercut by the guy selling Coca-Cola at the entrance.
What actually ruled: The abandoned lighthouse near Mũi Nghinh Phong. Not the famous Vũng Tàu Lighthouse – that one’s fine, crowded with Instagrammers. I’m talking about the old, decommissioned one hidden behind overgrown casuarina trees. I found it by accident (got off the motorbike too early). No entrance fee. No tourists. Just rusted iron, peeling paint, and waves crashing 50m below. I sat there for an hour, alone, watching a cargo ship crawl toward the horizon. That felt more spiritual than Jesus.
Skip the cable car to Hồ Mây Park. It’s 600k round trip – FOR WHAT? A mediocre amusement park with a sad zoo? My homestay owner said, “You want mountain view? Go to Minh Đạm Tunnel – it’s free and actual history.” I didn’t make it there, but I wish I’d skipped the cable car. Waste of dong.
The White Palace (Bạch Dinh)? It’s charming in a faded-colonial way. French governor’s summer villa, now a museum. I paid 15k entry. The highlight wasn’t the artifacts – it was the balcony overlooking the beach at golden hour. I sat on the steps and a resident cat curled next to me. The museum staff didn’t care. 10/10, would cat again.
Getting Around: What Google Maps Won't Tell You
Google Maps said “bus number 4 goes to Bãi Trước”. I waited at a stop near Nguyễn Thái Học for 25 minutes. No bus. A xe ôm guy – let’s call him Mr. Tâm, about 60, missing two front teeth – said “bus 4 come maybe 30 minute, maybe never. I take you 40k.” I bargained to 30k. Best money I spent. He gave me his number (Zalo) and became my unofficial driver for three days. He didn’t speak English, I don’t speak Vietnamese, but we communicated with hand signs and Google Translate. On day 4, he brought me a mango. I brought him iced coffee. We’re basically family now.
Motorbike rental: my homestay offered one for 120k/day. I took it. Day 2, I locked the key in the seat compartment. In the rain. Mr. Tâm came with a screwdriver and had it open in 2 minutes. I tried to pay him 50k; he refused. I bought him a pack of Thuốc lá Thăng Long (local cigarettes) – he beamed. Lesson: make friends with xe ôm guys, they’re your roadside assistance.
Also: the public ferry to Cần Giờ? Not really a thing from Vũng Tàu. I tried to find it. I failed. Don’t trust every blog.
Where I Stayed: The Good, Bad, and Weird
Nhà nghỉ Hương Biển – 52/6 Trương Công Định. I booked it on Agoda for $18/night. The photos showed a bright room with a seaview. The reality: the “seaview” was a sliver between two apartment blocks, but honestly, I wasn’t there for the view. The shower had pressure like a gentle sneeze, and the water temperature fluctuated between “tepid” and “slightly warmer tepid”. But the bed was firm in that good way, the AC worked (sounded like a Boeing 737, but worked), and there was a gecko named Greg who lived behind the wardrobe. I named him Greg. He ate mosquitoes. We were roommates.
The noise? At 5:30am, the lady next door started frying stuff – the smell of shallot oil wafted thru the window. At first I was annoyed, then I realized she was making breakfast for her grandkids. I kinda loved it. By day 3, I woke up at 5:30 naturally, ready for bánh canh.
What you don’t see in photos: the electrical panel in the hallway that buzzed ominously. Also, the family altar in the lobby with a jar of snake wine that looked at me accusingly every time I passed. Price paid: $86 for 5 nights (paid cash, got a slight discount). Worth it? 100% – because Cô Lan, the owner, drew me a map of her favorite eating spots on a napkin, and that napkin was worth more than any guidebook.
The Thing That Surprised Me
I thought Vũng Tàu was just a beach town – you go, you swim, you eat seafood, you leave. But what surprised me was how layered it felt. One moment you’re on tourist-central Thùy Vân, the next you’re on a dirt path behind a temple, watching fishermen untangle nets while their wives sort squid into baskets. There’s this whole other Vũng Tàu that isn’t on the postcards.
And the quiet. At 6am, Front Beach is silent except for the waves and the soft sweeping of an old man with a bamboo broom. No jet skis, no selfie sticks. I sat on the seawall and watched the sunrise paint the Jesus statue pink. I’m not religious, but I felt something – maybe just the lack of phone service. It was peaceful in a way I didn’t expect from a city only 100km from Saigon.
Also surprising: how many people offered help without expecting money. The fruit vendor who chased me 20m to give back the 5k I dropped. The motorbike repair guy who inflated my tire for free. It made me uncomfortable at first – I’m used to cynicism. Then it made me comfortable. Maybe that’s the real Vũng Tàu.
Money: What I Actually Spent
I’m that person who logs every transaction in a notes app. Here’s the damage for 5 full days (converted to USD for convenience, but paid mostly in VND).
| Category | What I Paid | Worth It? |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation (5 nights) | $86 | yes, Greg the gecko included |
| Food & drinks | $72 | banh khot alone worth $30 |
| Transport (xe ôm, bike rental, taxis) | $41 | Mr. Tâm = priceless |
| Attractions (cable car, museum, etc.) | $33 | cable car = regret, white palace = worth |
| SIM card + data | $6 | essential, bought at Viettel store |
| Souvenirs (dried squid, a ceramic whale) | $18 | the whale is named Greg Jr. |
| TOTAL | $256 | less than my phone bill, lmao |
Mistakes I Made So You Don't Have To
- ✖ 1. I didn’t bring reef-safe sunscreen. Thought “it’s fine, I’ll buy there.” Bought a bottle from a convenience store – it was SPF 15 and smelled like coconut-scented regret. I burned on day 1. My shoulders looked like a lobster. Pack your own, preferably waterproof and eco-friendly. The Vietnamese brands are fine but often whitening (they don’t want to tan).
- ✖ 2. I overpaid for a xe om from the bus station. 80k for a 2km ride because I was too tired to negotiate. The next day, Mr. Tâm charged me 30k for the same distance. Always ask “bao nhiêu?” before getting on. If it sounds high, walk away. They’ll call you back with a lower price.
- ✖ 3. I packed only jeans and linen pants. Linen is good, but in July? You need quick-dry stuff. Sudden 3pm downpour turned my trousers into wet cardboard. I ended up buying a pair of $6 elephant pants from a market stall. They’re ugly. I wore them every day.
- ✖ 4. I assumed the drinking water at the homestay was filtered. It wasn’t. I woke up with mild stomach cramps. Not full-blown food poisoning, but enough to spend an hour in the bathroom reading shampoo ingredients. Buy big 5L bottles at the minimart – 15k.
- ✖ 5. I skipped Nhà Lớn (Big House) because I thought “it’s just an old building.” A local I met at the bánh khọt stall told me I missed one of the most unique Taoist temples in Vietnam. I still regret it. Don’t be me.
Look, I’m not perfect. I messed up like every day. But that’s kinda the point.
How It Actually Went: Day by Day
Thursday: Meant to arrive at noon. Bus got stuck in traffic near Biên Hòa – arrived 3:30pm. Already sweating. Checked in, met Greg. Walked to Front Beach, immediately got approached by a woman selling selfie sticks. I bought one (100k, definitely overpaid). Watched the sunset. Felt hopeful. Ate bánh khọt for dinner. Went to sleep to the sound of karaoke from across the street – someone was belting “Đi Đu Đưa Đi” with impressive vibrato.
Friday: Woke up at 5:30 (thanks, frying shallots). Rented a motorbike. Drove to the Jesus Statue, climbed the stairs, robe situation, sweated, left. Got lost on the way back, ended up at the abandoned lighthouse. Sat there for an hour. Ate bún mắm for lunch. Napped thru the afternoon rain. Dinner at the ốc len lady – she taught me the toothpick twirl. Felt like a local. Texted my mom a photo of the snail bowl. She said “be careful of parasites.” Mom.
Saturday: Planned to do the cable car. Checked the price – 600k. Noped. Instead, Mr. Tâm took me to Minh Đạm Tunnel (free, historical). Cool bunkers from the war. Walked thru dark tunnels, felt the weight of history. Afternoon: thunderstorm. Sat at a cafe on Hoàng Hoa Thám, drank cà phê sữa đá, watched the rain flood the street. The barista played a lo-fi mix – suddenly “See Tình” came on. I laughed. He laughed. We both shook our heads.
Sunday: Slept in until 7:30. Missed sunrise completely. Didn’t care. Spent the morning at Bãi Sau – the quiet northern end. No jet skis. An old man was mending his net. His wife sold me boiled snails with salt and kaffir lime. I read half a book. Swam in water that was suspiciously brown but whatever. Evening: bought a ceramic whale from a night market stall. Named him Greg Jr. He sits on my desk now.
Monday: Last day. Cô Hạnh gave me extra bánh khọt. “Nhớ quay lại” (remember to come back). I said “chắc chắn” (definitely). Walked along the promenade one last time. The Khoa graffiti was still there. Took the 3pm bus back to Saigon. Watched the landscape change from coastal palms to industrial suburbs. Felt a pang. You know the one.
Practical Stuff (Without the Boring Lists)
This almost happened to me: A guy at Bãi Trước tried to sell me a “private boat to Monkey Island” for 500k. I said no. Later, my homestay owner told me the public ferry to Cần Giờ (which is near Monkey Island) is 30k, and Monkey Island itself is kinda sad with caged macaques. So, two scams in one pitch. Always check with your accommodation first.
Health thing that went wrong: Not me, but a girl I met at the hostel. She wore flip-flops to hike up to the lighthouse and cut her foot on a broken beer bottle. The wound got infected. She spent her last two days at the Vũng Tàu hospital getting a tetanus shot. Wear shoes, y’all. Also, the international hospital on Lê Hồng Phong is reliable but expensive – she paid $80 for the consultation.
Thing I wish I’d packed: A dry bag. Sudden rain + motorbike = phone in Ziploc. I used a plastic grocery bag, but it’s not dignified. Also, a small power bank – my homestay outlets were far from the bed.
One random hack: The best cheap coffee isn’t on the main strip. Go to the intersection of Lý Tự Trọng and Nguyễn Trãi – there’s a lady with a silver cart who serves cà phê sữa for 10k. She’s there 6am-9am only. Her name is Cô Sáu. She uses Trung Nguyên beans. I had coffee with her every morning. She called me “con gái” (daughter). That’s the stuff you remember.
Got questions? Wanna fight about bánh khọt?
Drop a comment below – I read ‘em all, even the grammar police.
Last updated: August 2024 · Prices may have changed (everything’s gone up)
❤️ If you see Mr. Tâm near the Front Beach roundabout, tell him the Aussie with the mangos says hi. And give Greg the gecko my regards.
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