Pembrokeshire Coast National Park

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park: The Ultimate Visitor's Guide | Tips, Trails & Things to Know

Introduction

Where land, sea, and sky perform a breathtaking symphony of colour and light, you'll find Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. This is not a park of remote, untamed wilderness, but a living, breathing landscape where 186 miles of the most spectacular coastline in Britain are woven together with ancient hills, wooded estuaries, and a rich tapestry of human history. As the UK's only truly coastal national park and a designated Marine Protected Area, its significance is global, recognised for its dramatic geology, diverse habitats, and wealth of wildlife.

Established in 1952, the park covers an area of 240 square miles, stretching from Amroth in the south to Poppit Sands in the north. It's a place of profound contrasts, where the thunderous power of Atlantic waves collides with sheltered, sandy coves, and where the silence of prehistoric standing stones is broken only by the cry of seabirds. The park's elevation ranges from sea level to the summit of Foel Cwmcerwyn at 536 metres (1,759 ft), offering panoramic views that stretch to Ireland on a clear day. Welcoming over 4.2 million visitors annually, it remains a working landscape of farms and fishing villages, where the Welsh language and culture thrive.

This guide is your key to unlocking its magic. We'll navigate the best times to visit for perfect conditions, reveal the top trails and hidden coves, explain practicalities like fees and passes, and provide insider tips to help you plan an unforgettable adventure. Whether you seek the thrill of coasteering, the peace of a coastal walk, or the charm of a seaside village, Pembrokeshire's coast awaits.

Quick Park Facts

• Year Established: 1952.
• Size: 240 square miles (approximately 153,600 acres).
• Annual Visitors: Approximately 4.2 million.
• Highest Point: Foel Cwmcerwyn, 536m (1,759 ft).
• Lowest Point: Sea level.
• Entrance Fee: None! The park is free to enter. Charges apply only for specific car parks, attractions, and events.
• Lodging & Camping: Hundreds of options, from B&Bs and hotels to over 50 registered campsites and caravan parks within the park.
• Pets Policy: Dogs are welcome but must be kept under close control, especially near livestock and cliff edges. Seasonal restrictions apply to some beaches (May-Sept).
• Nearest Airports: Cardiff International (2 hours drive), Bristol (2.5 hours), and smaller regional airports at Haverfordwest and Swansea.
• Gateway Towns: Tenby, St Davids, Fishguard, Newport (Pembs), and Pembroke.
• Accessibility: Several accessible trails, including sections of the Coast Path at Broad Haven South and Newport Parrog. All major visitor centres are accessible.

Best Times to Visit Pembrokeshire Coast National Park

Pembrokeshire's maritime climate means it experiences milder winters and cooler summers than inland areas, but it's also famously exposed to Atlantic weather systems. Choosing when to visit depends on your priorities: bustling summer energy or the serene beauty of the shoulder seasons.

Spring (March-May)

As winter recedes, the park bursts into life. Temperatures range from a crisp 8°C (46°F) in March to a pleasant 15°C (59°F) by May. Rainfall is moderate, but bright, blustery days are common. This is the season for wildflower displays, with coastal paths lined with bluebells, thrift, and sea campion. Birdlife is incredibly active, with puffins, guillemots, and razorbills returning to cliffside colonies from April. Crowds are light, especially outside of school holidays, making it ideal for peaceful hiking. Some seasonal attractions and boat trips begin operating from Easter onwards.

Summer (June-August)

This is peak season, with average highs of 18-20°C (64-68°F), though it can feel warmer inland. The long daylight hours are perfect for extended exploration. Be prepared for crowds at popular beaches like Barafundle and attractions like St Davids Cathedral. Coastal paths are busy, and accommodation books up far in advance. The sea is at its warmest (still bracing!), and all boat trips, coasteering, and kayaking operations are in full swing. Evening light is magical for photography. The main con is the potential for congested roads and car parks.

Fall (September-November)

Often considered the best time to visit. The summer crowds dissipate after early September, but the weather frequently remains mild, with temperatures ranging from 10-17°C (50-63°F). The Atlantic can produce spectacular storms, making for dramatic seascapes. The heathland on the Preseli Hills glows with purple heather, and autumn colours adorn the wooded valleys. This is an excellent time for hiking, with quieter trails and comfortable temperatures. Many visitor facilities remain open until the end of October.

Winter (December-February)

A season for solitude and raw, elemental beauty. Temperatures average 5-8°C (41-46°F), with occasional frost and rare snowfall on the hills. Storms can be fierce, and some coastal paths may be temporarily closed for safety. However, on clear winter days, the light is low and stunning, perfect for photography. You'll have vast beaches almost to yourself. Many cafes, campsites, and attractions close from November to February, but the park's charm endures for those seeking a reflective escape. Wrap up warm and embrace the wildness.

Shoulder Season Recommendation: For the best balance of good weather, manageable crowds, and open facilities, target late May to late June or the entire month of September.

Top Things to Do in Pembrokeshire Coast National Park

Iconic Scenic Drives

The Coastal Circuit: A 60-mile loop from Tenby to St Davids and back via the inland Preseli Hills. Allow a full day. Must-stop viewpoints include the clifftop at Strumble Head Lighthouse (seal and porpoise spotting), the panoramic vista from St Davids Head, and the charming harbour at Solva.

The Preseli Ridge Road: A 12-mile drive along the spine of the ancient Preseli Hills on minor roads. Start at Rosebush and finish near Crymych. It offers sweeping, moody views across the entire park and is the source of the famous bluestones of Stonehenge. Look out for wild ponies.

Best Hiking Trails

Easy:
St Davids Head Circular (2.5 miles, minimal elevation): An accessible introduction to the coast's drama. Explore rocky tors, neolithic remains, and Whitesands Bay. Abundant wildflowers in spring.
Bosherston Lily Ponds to Broad Haven South (3 miles return, flat): A serene walk through man-made lakes famous for their water lilies (peak in June/July), leading to a stunning, wide sandy beach.

Moderate:
Marloes Peninsula and Deer Park (4.5-mile loop, 150m elevation): Incredible geology and wildlife. The path skirts the dramatic cliff edges above Gateholm Island, with views to Skomer. A prime spot for seabirds and seals.
Porthgain to Abermawr (4 miles linear, 100m elevation): A quieter section of coast path showcasing industrial heritage (the ruined slate quarries of Porthgain) leading to the wild, pebble beach at Abermawr.

Strenuous:
Pwll Deri to Porthgain (8 miles linear, 400m cumulative elevation): One of the most challenging and rewarding sections. Includes the sheer cliffs of Pen Caer, the iconic natural arch at Porth Llong, and finishes at the picturesque harbour of Porthgain.
The Preseli Horseshoe (9-mile loop, 450m elevation): An inland challenge. A ridge walk taking in the summit of Foel Cwmcerwyn and the iconic Carn Menyn bluestone outcrops, with views stretching to the coast.

Wildlife Viewing Hotspots

Seabird Cities: Take a boat trip to the islands of Skomer (puffins, Manx shearwaters – April to July), GrassholmRamsey Island (seals, choughs, porpoises). Strumble Head is a prime land-based spot for porpoises and seals.
Marine Life: Look for Atlantic grey seals pupping on remote beaches from August to November. Bottlenose dolphins are frequently seen from coastal paths, especially around Strumble Head and New Quay (just north of the park).
Inland & Estuaries: The Daugleddau estuary is a haven for wading birds. The Preseli Hills are home to skylarks, stonechats, and wild ponies. Otters are elusive but present in clean rivers.

Ranger-Led Programs

The Park Authority runs an excellent programme of guided walks and events year-round. These include themed walks (history, geology, foraging), "Rockpool Rambles" for families, dark sky astronomy events in the Preselis (an International Dark Sky Park), and conservation volunteer days. Most are free or low-cost. Check the official National Park website for the latest schedule.

Photography Hotspots

1. Green Bridge of Wales at Sunset: Capture the iconic limestone arch glowing in the evening light.
2. Strumble Head Lighthouse at Dawn: For dramatic sunrise shots with crashing waves.
3. Barafundle Bay from the Cliff Path: The classic aerial view of this perfect crescent beach.
4. Solva Harbour at High Tide: Beautiful reflections of colourful houses and boats.
5. The Preseli Bluestones at Golden Hour: Mystical light on the ancient, weathered stones of Carn Menyn.

Where to Stay

Lodges, Hotels & B&Bs

From luxury to rustic charm, options abound within the park. In St Davids, consider the upmarket Twr y Felin Hotel ($$$) with its contemporary art, or the classic Warpool Court Hotel ($$). For a rural retreat, the Wolves Castle Hotel ($$) near the Preselis offers tranquility. In Tenby, the seafront Atlantic Hotel ($$) provides classic comfort. Booking 6-12 months in advance is essential for peak summer and popular locations.

Campgrounds

Pembrokeshire is a camper's paradise. National Trust sites like those at Meadow Farm (Marloes) and Pencarnan Farm (St Davids) offer simple, stunningly located pitches. Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority runs the eco-friendly Poppit Rocket pod site near Cardigan. For family-friendly facilities, consider larger parks like Trethem Mill or Freshwater East. Most sites are seasonal (Easter-Oct) and advance booking is strongly recommended.

Gateway Communities

Staying just outside the park boundary offers more choice and often better value. Haverfordwest (central, good transport links), Cardigan (north, vibrant market town), and Narberth (south, foodie heaven) are all excellent bases within a 20-minute drive of the park, with a wide range of hotels, guesthouses, and self-catering cottages.

How to Get to Pembrokeshire Coast National Park

The park is in southwest Wales. By Car: This is the most flexible option. The M4 motorway from London and the south east leads to the A40, which runs directly into the heart of Pembrokeshire. From the north, use the A487 coastal road. Driving times: from Cardiff (2 hours), Bristol (2.5 hours), Birmingham (3.5 hours). By Train: Mainline rail services run to Haverfordwest, Milford Haven, and Pembroke Dock from Swansea (on the London line). A beautiful branch line connects to Fishguard Harbour. By Air: Cardiff International is the main airport with full rental car services. Haverfordwest has a small airport with limited commercial flights. Public Transport Within the Park: The Puffin Shuttle (seasonal) and Celtic Coaster buses serve key coastal locations between St Davids and Marloes/St Bride's. The Strumble Shuttle covers the north coast. Plan carefully using the Traveline Cymru website.

Entrance Fees, Passes & Reservations

There is no entrance fee to access Pembrokeshire Coast National Park itself. Your main costs will be transport, accommodation, and activities. Car Parking: This is the primary charge. National Trust and Park Authority car parks typically cost between £4-£7 for a full day. Consider an annual National Trust membership for free parking at their many sites. Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Annual Parking Pass is also available for their car parks. Attractions: Boat trips to islands (e.g., Skomer) require pre-booked tickets, often selling out weeks in advance. Some heritage sites like Carew Castle or Pembroke Castle charge admission. No timed entry reservations are required for the park as a whole.

Packing Essentials & Gear Recommendations

Pembrokeshire's weather is famously changeable. Layering is non-negotiable. Pack a moisture-wicking base layer, a warm mid-layer (fleece), and a waterproof and windproof outer shell, regardless of season. Footwear: Sturdy, ankle-supporting hiking boots with good grip are essential for coastal paths, which can be muddy, rocky, and steep. For beach days, consider water shoes. Safety & Navigation: Always carry a detailed Ordnance Survey map (OL35/36) and compass, as phone signal is unreliable. A small first-aid kit, headtorch, and plenty of water and high-energy snacks are vital. Sun Protection: The coastal wind can deceive – pack sun cream, a hat, and sunglasses. For Camping: A high-quality tent capable of withstanding strong winds and rain is a must. Photography: A polarising filter will enhance skies and reduce water glare, and a tripod is useful for long exposures of waterfalls or waves.

Accessibility Information

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is committed to improving accessibility. Visitor Centres: Oriel y Parc in St Davids and the National Park Centre in Tenby are fully accessible. Trails: Several "All Ability" trails include the 1-mile Broad Haven South loop (compact stone surface), the Newport Parrog path, and the Colby Woodland Garden paths. Beaches: Tenby's North Beach has a seasonal beach wheelchair (bookable). Facilities: Accessible toilets are available at major car parks and hubs. Service Animals: Welcome throughout the park but must be kept under control. Some boat operators may have restrictions; always call ahead. Detailed accessibility guides are available on the National Park website.

Sample 3-Day and 5-Day Itineraries

3-Day Highlights Itinerary

Day 1 – South Pembrokeshire: Start at the stunning Bosherston Lily Ponds, walk to Barafundle Bay, then drive to Stackpole Quay. Afternoon in charming Tenby (walls, harbour, shops). Sunset at Green Bridge of Wales.

Day 2 – St Davids Peninsula: Explore Britain's smallest city, St Davids (Cathedral, Bishops Palace). Hike the St Davids Head circular for epic views. Afternoon boat trip from St Justinians to see Ramsey Island or visit the spectacular Whitesands Bay.

Day 3 – North Coast Drama: Drive to Marloes for the peninsula walk. Visit the Deer Park for views of Skomer. Afternoon at Strumble Head for lighthouse views and wildlife spotting. Evening in Fishguard for a harbour-side dinner.

5-Day In-Depth Itinerary

Days 1 & 2: As per the 3-day South and St Davids itinerary, but add a full-day boat trip to Skomer Island (book months ahead) on Day 2 if possible.

Day 3 – The Preseli Hills: Drive the ridge road. Hike part of the Golden Road ancient trackway. Visit the Gors Fawr stone circle and the bluestone outcrops. Explore the market town of Newport (Pembs) and its estuary.

Day 4 – The Hidden North: Explore the dramatic cliffs between Pwll Deri and Porthgain on foot. Visit the unique harbour village of Porthgain for lunch at The Shed. Afternoon at the serene beach of Abermawr or Abereiddy's Blue Lagoon.

Day 5 – Estuaries & History: Morning walk at Carew Castle and Tidal Mill. Then, delve into history at Pembroke Castle, the magnificent birthplace of Henry VII. Final afternoon relaxing at a beach of your choice, perhaps Freshwater East.

Family-Friendly Tips

Pembrokeshire is fantastic for families. Enrol kids in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Junior Ranger scheme – collect activity packs from visitor centres. Easy, engaging walks include the Bosherston Lily Ponds, St Davids Head, and the circular walk around Colby Woodland Garden. Beach days are a must – try the safe, sandy stretches of Newgale, Broad Haven (South), or Tenby's North Beach. Visit Folly Farm (just outside the park) for a mix of zoo, fairground, and farm. Go rockpooling at low tide on beaches like Freshwater West or Manorbier. Many family-friendly campsites have play areas and easy beach access.

Rules, Safety & Leave No Trace

Coastal Path Safety: Stay on the marked path. Cliffs are unstable and edges can crumble. Keep a safe distance from the edge, especially in high winds. Check tide times before exploring beaches or crossing causeways. Water Safety: Sea currents can be strong, even on calm days. Only swim at lifeguarded beaches (red and yellow flags). Livestock: Dogs must be on leads around farm animals. Close all gates. Leave No Trace: Take all litter home. Use public toilets or facilities at cafes. Do not disturb wildlife or remove stones, plants, or historical artefacts. Have campfires only in designated areas. Wild Camping: Is not permitted on the coast path or most open land without the landowner's explicit permission. Use official campsites. Permits: Required for commercial filming and some large group activities.

Nearby Attractions

Within a 90-minute drive, you can expand your Welsh adventure. Head north to the Snowdonia National Park (2 hours) for mountainous grandeur. Eastwards, visit the Brecon Beacons National Park (1.5 hours) for waterfalls and hikes. Don't miss the unique National Botanic Garden of Wales (45 mins) with its iconic Great Glasshouse. The historic waterfront city of Swansea and the Gower Peninsula (an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) are about an hour's drive east, offering more spectacular coastline. For a cultural day, the charming county town of Carmarthen is a 45-minute drive.

FAQ About Visiting Pembrokeshire Coast National Park

How many days do you need in Pembrokeshire Coast National Park?

To experience a good variety, a minimum of 3 full days is recommended. This allows time for a couple of coastal walks, a boat trip, and exploring a few different regions. A 5 to 7-day trip lets you immerse yourself fully and explore at a relaxed pace.

Can you see the park in one day?

Yes, but you'll only scratch the surface. A one-day highlights tour could include a short walk on the coast path near St Davids, a visit to Tenby or Solva, and a drive along a scenic route like the St Davids Peninsula. Focus on one small area.

Are there midges or ticks in Pembrokeshire?

Midges can be present in calm, damp conditions near freshwater in summer. Ticks are found in grassy and wooded areas year-round. Use insect repellent and check for ticks after walking, especially if with pets.

Is Pembrokeshire Coast National Park dog-friendly?

Very, but with important responsibilities. Dogs must be under close control at all times. They are banned from many beaches from May 1st to September 30th (clearly signed). Always clean up after your dog.

What is the closest airport to the park?

Hawarden (Chester) is the nearest for the north, but Cardiff International (Rhoose) is the main international airport with the best connections and car hire, approximately a 2-hour drive.

Do I need a reservation for the park?

No reservation is needed to enter the park. However, you must pre-book accommodation, popular boat trips (especially to Skomer), and often car parking for specific events. Campsites should be booked well in advance.

When does the park close?

The park is open 24/7, 365 days a year. However, visitor centres, attractions, cafes, and some car parks have seasonal opening hours, typically reduced or closed from November to February.

Can I wild camp on the Pembrokeshire Coast Path?

No. Wild camping is not legally permitted on most of the coast path or surrounding land without the landowner's permission. There are many excellent, legal campsites to choose from.

What's the best way to see puffins?

Take a pre-booked boat trip to Skomer Island between April and late July. You can also see them (at a distance) from the mainland at The Wick on Skomer Island viewable from Marloes Peninsula, and from Strumble Head.

Conclusion

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park is a landscape that gets under your skin. It's the scent of salt and gorse on the wind, the sound of a thousand seabirds on the cliffs, the feel of cool sand between your toes, and the awe of standing where ancient peoples once stood. It offers not just a holiday, but a genuine connection to the raw power and serene beauty of the natural world. Whether you spend your days hiking rugged trails, discovering hidden coves, or simply watching the light change over a sheltered estuary, the park's magic is undeniable. Our final tip? Put the map away for an hour. Follow a footpath, sit on a cliff top, and simply be present. This is a place to breathe deeply and recharge. We invite you to explore it, cherish it, and help protect its timeless beauty for generations to come. Croeso i Benfro – Welcome to Pembrokeshire.