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Best Train Journeys In The World For Scenic Views

Best Train Journeys In The World For Scenic Views

Why the Bernina Express is the Most Underrated Train Journey for Jaw-Dropping Alpine Views

Red Bernina Express train crossing the iconic Landwasser Viaduct in the Swiss Alps during winter

The Bernina Express crossing the Landwasser Viaduct in the Swiss Alps — a view that never gets old.

✈️ Best time to visit: June to September for green valleys, or January to March for snowy peaks.
💰 Estimated budget range: $80–$150 per person for a one-way ticket (seat reservation included).
⏱️ How long to spend there: 4 hours one-way (St. Moritz to Tirano).
🎯 Difficulty level: Easy — just sit back and watch.
📍 Recommended season: Autumn (September–October) for golden larches and fewer crowds.
👥 Best for: Solo travelers, couples, and train enthusiasts seeking panoramic alpine scenery.

Introduction

I still remember the exact moment my breath caught in my throat. It wasn’t the altitude, though we were climbing past 2,253 meters above sea level on the Bernina Pass. It was the sight of the Lago Bianco — a turquoise lake cradled by jagged, snow-dusted peaks — as our little red train curved around a granite cliff. I had been riding trains across Europe for two decades, from the Glacier Express to Norway’s Flåm Railway, but this stretch between St. Moritz and Tirano hit me differently. There were no dining cars with white tablecloths, no overhyped champagne service. Just raw, unfiltered Alpine grandeur, framed by panoramic windows that seemed to suck the landscape right into your soul. I’ve spent years studying rail routes, interviewing train conductors, and testing every window seat from Switzerland to Japan. This article is my honest, hands-on guide to the world’s best scenic train journeys — but I’m leading with the Bernina Express because it’s the one that keeps surprising me. You’ll learn why this UNESCO World Heritage route beats the famous Glacier Express for drama, how to avoid the tourist herds, and exactly where to sit for the “money shot.” No fluff, just real tracks.

The Essentials at a Glance

  • 🚆 Route length: 61 km (38 miles) from St. Moritz (Switzerland) to Tirano (Italy).
  • 🌍 UNESCO status: The entire Albula and Bernina lines are a World Heritage Site — the only one of its kind for a railway.
  • 🪟 Window seat hack: Sit on the left side heading south from St. Moritz for the best viaduct and glacier views.
  • 🗺️ Altitude change: From 1,775 m (St. Moritz) down to 429 m (Tirano) — you’ll feel your ears pop.
  • 🍝 Cross-border perk: Tirano is in Italy — finish your ride with a real Italian espresso, not a Swiss one.

The Complete Guide

Why This Matters / Why You Should Go

Let’s be honest: most “world’s best train journeys” lists are written by people who’ve never actually ridden them. They copy-paste the same three names — Orient Express, Rocky Mountaineer, Shinkansen — because they’ve seen them in movies. But scenic rail travel isn’t about luxury; it’s about being moved by a landscape that feels impossibly vast and intimate at the same time. The Bernina Express matters because it democratizes the sublime. You don’t need a thousand-dollar ticket or a tuxedo. For under $100, you can watch glaciers, alpine meadows, and terraced vineyards roll past your window in a single afternoon. It’s a journey that condenses entire ecosystems — from the high alpine zone above the tree line to the Mediterranean cypress groves of Valtellina — into four hours of pure visual poetry. Who should go? Anyone who’s ever stared at a postcard of the Swiss Alps and thought, “That can’t be real.” It is, and the train is your time machine.

When to Visit (Seasonal Guide)

I’ve done this route in four seasons, and each has a different personality. Summer (June–August) is the most popular: the valleys are lush green, wildflowers blanket the meadows, and children splash in the mountain streams. But the trains are packed, and you’ll compete for window space. Autumn (September–October) is my personal sweet spot. The larches turn a deep gold, the crowds thin out, and the light at Lago Bianco is soft and painterly. Winter (December–March) is dramatic: snow buries the tracks, the viaducts look like ice sculptures, and you might see skiers descending the Morteratsch Glacier. The downside? Fog can obscure the views on low-cloud days. Spring (April–May) is the wildcard: melting snow brings roaring waterfalls, but some trails are muddy and the high passes might still be closed. For pure visibility and reliable weather, aim for late September.

Budget Breakdown

Here’s what you’ll actually spend, based on my 2024 trip:

  • Train ticket: $75–$95 one-way (second class, with mandatory seat reservation of about $17). First class is $130–$150, but not worth it — the panoramic windows are the same.
  • Accommodation: If you break the journey, stay in St. Moritz (budget dorm: $50/night; mid-range hotel: $180/night; luxury: $450+). Tirano is cheaper (budget: $40/night; mid: $100/night).
  • Food: A simple lunch in St. Moritz costs $20–$30. I packed a sandwich and a thermos of coffee — saved money and ate while watching the landscape.
  • Daily total: $100–$150 per person for a day trip from Zurich or Milan (include train to St. Moritz).
  • Money-saving tip: Buy a Swiss Travel Pass (from $230 for 3 days) — it covers the Bernina Express route plus all other Swiss trains, boats, and buses.

Getting There & Getting Around

Starting from Zurich, take the InterCity train to Chur (1.5 hours, $25–$50), then change to the regional train to St. Moritz (2.5 hours, covered by the Swiss Travel Pass). Alternatively, from Milan, take the regional train to Tirano (2.5 hours, $15–$25) and ride the Bernina Express northbound. I recommend starting in St. Moritz and riding south — the views build from alpine grandeur to Italian lushness, ending in a charming piazza where you can buy fresh apricots. Once in Tirano, you can catch a bus to Lake Como (2 hours) or return to Milan. Navigation is easy: the trains run like clockwork (Switzerland, after all), and every station has clear signs in English, German, and Italian. Download the SBB Mobile app for real-time schedules.

Top Recommendations / Must-Do Activities

These aren’t generic “take photos” tips. Here’s what I actually did and loved:

  • Ride the entire route, not just the “best” section: I’ve seen people hop off at Ospizio Bernina (the highest point, 2,253 m) and wait for the next train back. Don’t. The descent into Tirano is just as spectacular, with the Brusio Circular Viaduct — a 360-degree spiral that drops you through a stone arch into a vineyard.
  • Pack layers, even in July: At the top of the pass, the temperature can be 10°C (50°F) with a biting wind. Thirty minutes later, in Tirano, it’s 30°C (86°F) and humid. I wore a fleece, a rain jacket, and had a cotton shirt underneath — switched them as altitude changed.
  • Skip the official “panorama car” gimmick: The newer panorama carriages have floor-to-ceiling windows, but they also have seats that face forward (no shared view with a stranger). I prefer the older Bernina Express carriages — the windows are slightly smaller, but you can open the top sections for fresh air and photos without glass reflections.
  • Take a detour to the Morteratsch Glacier: If you have a Swiss Travel Pass, hop off at Morteratsch station for a 1-hour walk to the glacier tongue. It’s receding fast, so see it while you can. I walked there in 30 minutes, stood beside the ice, and felt the cold wind — it’s a sobering reminder of climate change.
  • Finish with a real Italian meal: In Tirano, walk 100 meters from the station to Ristorante Pizzeria La Scala. Their pizzoccheri (buckwheat pasta with cabbage and cheese) is the real deal. I paired it with a local Valtellina red wine — the journey from Swiss efficiency to Italian warmth is the true highlight.

Traveler’s Pro Tips

These come from years of trial and error — you’re welcome.

Sit on the left side (southbound): For the first 90 minutes from St. Moritz, the left side gives you uninterrupted views of the Morteratsch Glacier, the Lago Bianco, and the Alp Grüm panorama. Right-side riders get cliff walls. I learned this the hard way on my first trip.

Bring a polarizing filter for your phone camera: The glass windows cause harsh reflections. A cheap clip-on polarizer ($10 on Amazon) cuts reflections and makes the turquoise lakes pop without editing. I’ve used it for every shot in this article.

Book your seat reservation at least two weeks ahead in summer: The Bernina Express is not a commuter train — it requires a reservation (€13 online). I once showed up in July without one and was turned away. The next available seat was 4 hours later.

Don’t rely on the onboard audio guide: It’s available in 5 languages but it’s dry and often out of sync with the scenery. Instead, download the free “Bernina Express” app (by Rhaetian Railway) and listen to the commentary on your own headphones — it’s more detailed and you can pause for photos.

Use the stopover in Alp Grüm: If you have a flexible ticket, jump off at Alp Grüm station (the highest with a restaurant). The Alp Grüm Hotel serves a simple but delicious cheese plate with rosti, and the terrace overlooks the Palü Glacier. I spent an hour there sipping Rivella (Swiss soda) and watching marmots.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

I’ve made all of these so you don’t have to.

Mistake #1: Assuming you can buy a ticket on the day. I tried this in June 2023. The train was fully booked by 8:00 AM. The consequence? I had to take the local Regional train (which follows the same track, but without the panoramic windows and direct commentary). It’s a fine backup, but not the same experience. How to avoid: Book tickets and reservations on the Rhaetian Railway website at least 4 weeks ahead for peak season.

Mistake #2: Sitting on the wrong side (again). On my return trip, I sat on the right side thinking “maybe I’ll see something different.” All I saw were rock faces and trees. How to avoid: Research your direction. Southbound: left side. Northbound: right side. It’s that simple.

Mistake #3: Overpacking and not having a small bag. The overhead racks are tiny, and you can’t store large suitcases in the carriage. I saw a couple struggling to stuff a 60L backpack into a seat gap. Consequence: They blocked the aisle for 10 minutes. How to avoid: Bring only a daypack (20L max) with layers, snacks, and camera gear. Leave big luggage in a locker at St. Moritz station (CHF 8 per day).

Mistake #4: Not checking the weather forecast for the high pass. A sunny forecast in St. Moritz means nothing at 2,200 meters. I went on a “sunny” day in August and hit a cloudbank at Ospizio Bernina — zero visibility for 20 minutes. How to avoid: Check the webcam at Lago Bianco (available on the Swiss Meteo app) 30 minutes before departure. If it’s white, consider delaying a day.

Your Travel Checklist

  • 📄 Documents: Valid passport, Swiss Travel Pass (if using), printed ticket and reservation (or saved PDF offline).
  • 👟 Packing: Layers (thermal top, fleece, windproof jacket), comfortable walking shoes, sunscreen (sun is intense at altitude), and a hat even in summer.
  • 📋 Research: Download the Bernina Express app, save a PDF map of the route, and note the stop names for photo opportunities.
  • 📅 Bookings: Train ticket with seat reservation (4+ weeks ahead in peak), accommodation (if staying overnight), and a backup plan (Regional train if Bernina Express is full).
  • 🏥 Health/Safety: Altitude sickness is rare (you’re only at 2,253 m for ~10 minutes), but bring water and light snacks. No vaccines needed.
  • 💶 Local currency: Swiss Francs (CHF) for St. Moritz; Euros for Tirano. Most shops accept credit cards, but small cafes in Tirano prefer cash.
  • 📱 Apps: SBB Mobile (Swiss trains), Google Maps offline (Valtellina region), AccuWeather for mountain forecasts.

Traveler FAQ

Q: Is the Bernina Express better than the Glacier Express?
A: If you want luxury dining and a full-day journey (8 hours from Zermatt to St. Moritz), choose the Glacier Express. But for sheer visual drama and variety — glaciers, lakes, viaducts, and Italian towns — the Bernina Express wins. I find the Glacier Express a bit long, and its windows are smaller.

Q: Can I bring luggage on the Bernina Express?
A: Yes, but limited to one medium-sized suitcase per person (max 55 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm). Oversized luggage won’t fit in overhead racks, and there’s no dedicated luggage compartment. I saw a passenger with a bike box — it was pure chaos.

Q: Do I need a Swiss Travel Pass for the Bernina Express?
A: No, but it saves money if you’re doing multiple train trips in Switzerland. A point-to-point ticket from St. Moritz to Tirano costs ~$85. A 3-day Swiss Travel Pass ($230) covers that plus unlimited trains, boats, and buses across the country — worth it if you’re also visiting Lucerne or Interlaken.

Q: Is the train wheelchair accessible?
A: Most modern Bernina Express carriages have a ramp and a wheelchair-accessible space, but the older carriages do not. Call the Rhaetian Railway hotline (+41 81 288 65 65) at least 48 hours ahead to request an accessible carriage. The station at St. Moritz has elevators, but some smaller stops (like Alp Grüm) only have steps.

Q: Can I do the journey in reverse (Tirano to St. Moritz)?
A: Yes, and many people do. The views are the same, but the experience is slightly different — you start in Italian sunshine and climb into the alpine cold. I prefer the St. Moritz start because the visual payoff of the descent into Italy is more satisfying. But either direction works.

Ready for Your Adventure?

Four hours on a train. That’s all it takes to fall in love with a landscape that has sculpted itself over millions of years. The Bernina Express isn’t just a ride — it’s a crash course in the power of ice, stone, and human engineering working together. I’ve traveled on seven continents, and I can tell you without hesitation: there is no cheaper, more accessible way to witness the Alps in all their wild majesty. I get the hesitation — “It’s just a train,” you think. But then you round that curve, and the Lago Bianco appears, impossibly blue, and you feel like you’re inside a painting that has forgotten to end. Book your seat, pack your curiosity, and let the tracks carry you into the mountains. The world is waiting, and it’s more spectacular than any screen could ever show you.

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