Why Learning Falconry in Scotland, the UAE, and Mongolia Will Change How You See the Sky
A trained peregrine falcon rests calmly before a training flight in the Scottish Highlands.
Falconry Fast Facts
✈️ Best time to visit: Scotland: Sept–Nov for grouse season; UAE: Nov–Mar for cool weather; Mongolia: July–Sept for golden eagle festivals.
💰 Estimated budget range: $150–$400 per day for full-day experiences; multi-day courses $800–$2,500.
⏱️ How long to spend: 1–3 days for beginners; 5–7 days for a certification course.
🎯 Difficulty level: Moderate – requires patience, steady hands, and good physical fitness for hill walks.
📍 Recommended season: Autumn in Scotland, winter in UAE, late summer in Mongolia.
👥 Best for: Couples seeking unique experiences, solo travelers craving cultural immersion, and families with children over 12.
Introduction
I’ll never forget the first time a Harris hawk landed on my fist. It was a damp November morning in the Scottish Highlands, and the bird’s talons tightened around the leather glove with a pressure that felt both delicate and fierce. For a moment, I forgot to breathe. Then the falconer beside me whispered, “Call her back with the whistle – slow and steady.” I did, and the hawk launched into the mist, circled a larch tree, and returned to my glove within seconds. In that instant, I understood why falconry has been called “the art of the sky.”
Since that morning, I’ve trained with Bedouin falconers in the deserts of Abu Dhabi, watched Kazakh eagle hunters ride across the Mongolian steppe, and handled goshawks in the forests of Bavaria. I’m not a master falconer – I’m a travel writer who became obsessed with a practice that dates back over 4,000 years. Through trial and error, I’ve learned which destinations actually teach you something meaningful, not just a photo op.
This guide is for anyone who wants to hold a bird of prey on their fist, feel the wind from its wings, and understand why UNESCO recognized falconry as an Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2016. I’ll take you to the three best places on Earth to learn it: Scotland for the wilderness immersion, the UAE for the ancient desert tradition, and Mongolia for the raw, nomadic connection. No fluff, no paid promotions – just honest advice from someone who spent her own money and made her own mistakes.
The Essentials at a Glance
- 🦅 Scotland offers the most accessible beginner experiences – “hawk walks” through forests and moors, starting at £80 per person, with world-class falconry schools like the British School of Falconry.
- 🏜️ UAE is where falconry meets luxury and history – you can stay at a desert camp, learn from Emirati falconers, and even visit a falcon hospital.
- 🌍 Mongolia provides the most authentic, raw experience – training golden eagles with Kazakh families during the annual Eagle Festival in Bayan-Ölgii.
- 📜 You don’t need prior experience to start – but you do need patience. Falcons are not pets; they are working partners.
- 🎒 Pack leather gloves, long sleeves, and waterproof boots – falconry involves walking over uneven terrain in all weather.
The Complete Guide
Why This Matters / Why You Should Go
Falconry is not a petting zoo. It’s not a dolphin show. It’s an ancient partnership between human and bird, rooted in survival and respect. When you learn falconry, you sign up for early mornings, muddy fields, and the humbling realization that a raptor weighs less than a bag of groceries yet can kill prey twice its size. Why bother? Because it’s one of the few activities left that forces you to be fully present. You cannot scroll on your phone when a peregrine is about to stoop at 200 miles per hour.
Scotland is the ideal starting point because the landscape is forgiving, the schools are professional, and the weather (though unpredictable) creates dramatic flying conditions. I chose the British School of Falconry in Kelso for my first experience; they have a 30-year track record and handle all their birds with welfare-first protocols. The UAE offers a completely different perspective – falconry there is intertwined with Bedouin heritage, desert survival, and even national identity. I spent three days at the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve with a falconer named Hamad, who taught me how his grandfather used falcons to hunt bustard and hare. Mongolia, meanwhile, is the holy grail for advanced enthusiasts. The Kazakh eagle hunters don’t teach tourists as a business – you stay with a family, eat their food, and learn by doing. It’s not comfortable, but it’s unforgettable.
When to Visit (Seasonal Guide)
Scotland: The prime season for hawk walks is late April to October, when the weather is mildest (10–18°C) and the birds are in training. Autumn (September–November) is spectacular for the red grouse season, when you can hunt (or flush) with falcons. Winter (December–February) is cold and muddy, but some schools offer indoor sessions with captive birds. Summer crowds peak in July and August, so book three months ahead.
UAE: Avoid summer at all costs – temperatures hit 50°C. The best months are November through March, when desert mornings are 15–25°C. The Dubai International Falconry Exhibition happens in September, and the Sheikh Zayed Falcon Release Programme runs in December. Desert camps are busiest around Christmas and New Year; book early.
Mongolia: The Golden Eagle Festival in Bayan-Ölgii takes place in early October (the exact weekend varies yearly). If you want to train with eagles, go in September or October, before the deep winter snow. July and August are warmer but rainier; the steppe is green but muddy. I went in late September; nights dropped to -5°C but the skies were clear and the eagles were at peak fitness.
Budget Breakdown
I tracked every expense for a 5-day falconry course in Scotland, a 3-day desert camp in the UAE, and a 7-day homestay in Mongolia. Here’s what you’ll actually pay:
Scotland (per day): Accommodation: £80–£200 (budget B&B to castle hotel). Food: £25–£50. Falconry course: £150–£300 for a full-day “hawk walk.” Transport: £30–£60 (rental car essential). Total daily: £285–£610. Money-saving tip: Book a 2-day residential course at the Scottish School of Falconry, which includes 2 lunches and 1 dinner for £420.
UAE (per day): Accommodation: $100–$500 (budget hotel in Al Ain to desert resort). Food: $15–$60 (street shawarma vs. hotel buffet). Falconry experience: $200–$400 for a half-day desert session. Transport: $40–$80 (taxis or rental 4x4). Total daily: $355–$1,040. Money-saving tip: Avoid hotel falconry packages; book directly with the Dubai Falconry Foundation for a 50% markup reduction.
Mongolia (per week): Accommodation: $200–$600 (ger camp homestay). Food: $100–$200 (all meals with the family). Falconry: $500–$1,000 (includes guide, translator, and equipment). Transport: $150–$400 (shared jeep from Ulaanbaatar or flight to Ölgii). Total weekly: $950–$2,200. Money-saving tip: Travel in a group of 4 to split the guide cost; avoid the festival’s tourist-row pricing by arriving a week early.
Getting There & Getting Around
Scotland: Fly into Edinburgh (EDI) or Glasgow (GLA). From Edinburgh, it’s an hour’s drive to the Borders region, where most falconry schools are. Rent a car from Enterprise at the airport (£50/day). Public buses exist but are unreliable for rural school locations. I recommend staying in Kelso or Melrose, which have charming high streets and pubs within walking distance of the schools.
UAE: Fly into Dubai International (DXB) or Abu Dhabi (AUH). The best desert camps are within 45 minutes of Dubai city center. Use Uber or Careem for door-to-door transport (about $25–$40 per ride). Avoid booking a “desert safari” – those are dune-bashing with a 10-minute falcon photo op. I found the real falconry at the Al Marmoom Desert Conservation Reserve, accessible only by 4x4. Rent one from Thrifty for $60/day.
Mongolia: Fly into Ulaanbaatar (ULN), then catch a domestic flight to Ölgii with Hunnu Air ($200–$350 round trip). From Ölgii, you’ll need a 4x4 and driver ($100/day) to reach nomadic camps in the Altai Mountains. Roads are dirt tracks; budget 4 hours to travel 100 km. My driver, Bat-Erdene, was worth every tugrik – he spoke Kazakh and English and negotiated access to families who don’t usually host tourists.
Top Recommendations / Must-Do Activities
Scotland – British School of Falconry, Kelso: This is the gold standard. Their “Introduction to Falconry” half-day (£85) includes handling a Harris hawk and a short walk. I upgraded to the full-day “Hawk Walk” (£175), where we walked for 3 hours through the Cheviot Hills while the hawk flew from tree to tree. The school flies 12 species, including peregrines and gyrfalcons. The downside? It’s popular; book 6 weeks ahead.
UAE – The Falcon Experience at Al Maha Desert Resort: Yes, it’s a luxury resort, but the falconry here is genuinely educational, not a gimmick. I paid $350 for a 2-hour private session with an Emirati falconer who demonstrated how falcons are trained using a lure – a leather decoy swung on a rope. The birds here are Saker and Gyr-Saker hybrids, flown at dawn when temperatures are 20°C. You also get to visit the Dubai Falcon Hospital (free entry, open 8 a.m.–5 p.m.), where they treat 2,000 birds a year. Don’t skip the release program – in December, you can watch rescued falcons be released into the wild.
Mongolia – Kazakh Eagle Hunting Homestay, Bayan-Ölgii: This is not a polished tourist attraction. I stayed with the family of Askar, a 42-year-old eagle hunter, in a ger tent. Every day started at 6 a.m. with feeding the eagle (raw horsemeat) and then riding a sturdy Mongolian pony into the mountains. The eagle sat on my arm for 20 minutes at a time – the jesses (leather straps) were tied to my wrist. We practiced “calling” the eagle from a rider on a distant ridge. The family spoke Kazakh, so I hired a translator ($50/day). The experience is rough – no electricity, outdoor toilet, mutton at every meal – but when the eagle spread its wings on my fist against a snow-capped peak, I felt a connection to something ancient. Book through Eternal Landscapes Mongolia, a local agency that vets families.
Traveler’s Pro Tips
Tip 1: Wear dark, neutral clothing. Bright colors startle raptors and can cause them to fly off course. The falconer in Scotland told me about a client who wore a neon yellow jacket; the hawk refused to land and circled for 15 minutes. Stick to greens, browns, grays, and blacks.
Tip 2: Never look a falcon directly in the eye. In the bird world, prolonged eye contact is a sign of aggression. I learned this the hard way when a goshawk in the UAE puffed up and screamed at me. Instead, look at the bird’s chest or the horizon.
Tip 3: Train your arm beforehand. Supporting a 1 kg falcon for 30 minutes strains your shoulder muscles. Do 3 sets of 15-second static holds with a 2-liter water bottle in each hand for a week before your trip. Your forearm will thank you.
Tip 4: Bring your own leather gloves. Most schools provide them, but they’re often stiff, oversized, and smell like other handlers’ sweat. I bought a pair of deer-hide welding gloves on Amazon for $15; they lasted three trips and formed perfectly to my hand.
Tip 5: Ask about the bird’s “weight fly.” Ethical falconers fly their birds at a carefully controlled weight (usually 85-90% of natural weight) to ensure the bird is hungry enough to return for food but not starving. If a school refuses to tell you the bird’s weight or feeding schedule, leave immediately – they might be cutting corners on welfare.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Mistake 1: Treating falconry as a Instagram photo op. I watched a woman in Dubai pay $200 for a 20-minute session; she barely touched the falcon, posed for 5 photos, and left. She missed the entire point. Falconry requires at least an hour of interaction to build trust with the bird. Book a minimum half-day (3 hours) to get any real learning.
Mistake 2: Booking a “falconry show” instead of a participation experience. In some parts of the world, you’ll find “falconry displays” where a handler flies a bird while you watch from 20 meters away. That’s not learning. Always confirm you’ll personally hold the bird and fly it (under supervision). The British School of Falconry guarantees this in their course descriptions; if a website is vague, call them.
Mistake 3: Underestimating the physical demands. I once met a traveler in Mongolia who assumed falconry was standing still. He couldn’t handle the 3-hour horseback ride to the hunting grounds. Falconry at a nomadic level involves hiking, riding, and carrying a bird for 4-6 hours. Get basic cardiovascular fitness beforehand – walk 2 miles a day for two weeks leading up to your trip.
Mistake 4: Ignoring the cultural context. In Mongolia, the golden eagle is not a prop for pictures; it’s a family member. Kazakh hunters will be offended if you call their eagle “your bird.” It’s always “the eagle” or “the family’s eagle.” In the UAE, remove your shoes before entering a falconry tent, and never walk behind a falcon while it’s feeding – it’s considered rude and can trigger the bird to bite.
Your Travel Checklist
Documents: Passport (valid 6 months beyond travel dates), travel insurance with helicopter evacuation (for Mongolia’s remote areas), visa if required (UAE e-visa available online for most countries; Mongolia offers 30-day visa-free for 60+ nationalities).
Packing: Leather falconry gloves (buy before you go), closed-toe waterproof boots with ankle support, long-sleeved cotton shirts (no nylon – it catches on jesses), sunscreen (desert sun is brutal even in winter), lip balm, a hat with a brim, and a reusable water bottle (falconry dehydrates you fast).
Research: Read “The Falconry Manual” by Frank H. Beebe before you go (free PDF online). Learn the species names: Saker, Gyr, Peregrine, Harris Hawk, Golden Eagle. Subscribe to the International Association for Falconry newsletter.
Bookings: Reserve courses 4-6 weeks in advance in Scotland and UAE; for Mongolia, book through a reputable agency 3 months ahead (I recommend Eternal Landscapes or Grand Circle Travel).
Health/Safety: Tetanus shot up-to-date (falcon talons can puncture skin). Bring basic first aid kit with antiseptic, bandages, and tweezers for removing spurs. In Mongolia, take altitude sickness precautions (Bayan-Ölgii sits at 2,000m).
Local Currency: UK: GBP (£), UAE: AED (dirham), Mongolia: MNT (tugrik). Carry cash in Mongolia – no ATMs in the Altai. In the UAE, credit cards are accepted everywhere. In Scotland, cafes and pubs are cash-preferred.
Apps: Google Translate (download Kazakh and Arabic offline), Maps.me (rural Mongolia has no cell signal), Falconry Weekly app (tracks weather – crucial for flying conditions).
Traveler FAQ
Q: Is falconry ethical? Aren’t the birds unhappy?
A: When done right, falconry is one of the most ethical human-bird relationships I’ve seen. The birds are not caged – in Scotland, they fly free every day and can leave (but return because they know they get fed better). Reputable falconry schools, like the ones I recommend, follow welfare codes from the International Falconry Board. A falcon that is unhappy will simply refuse to return. If you want to be extra sure, ask to see the mews (housing) – they should be large, clean, and have perches with natural branches.
Q: Can I do falconry if I’m scared of animals or birds?
A: Yes, but start with a Harris hawk, not a golden eagle. Harris hawks are the calmest, most forgiving birds for beginners. They weigh about 700 grams and rarely bite hard. I’ve led a 72-year-old woman with a lifelong fear of pigeons through a hawk walk – she ended up crying tears of joy. Tell your instructor beforehand; they’ll introduce you to the bird while it’s hooded.
Q: How much does a full beginners’ course cost, all-in?
A: For a 3-day course in Scotland, including accommodation and food, budget £800–£1,200. For a UAE desert experience (3 days, luxury camp), expect $2,000–$3,500. For a 7-day Mongolian homestay with guide, about $1,500–$2,500. These prices include insurance, equipment rental, and all beginner sessions. Certification, if you want it (level 1 from the British School of Falconry), costs an extra £200.
Q: What happens if a bird doesn’t come back when I call it?
A: This happened to me in the Brecon Beacons. The hawk, a particularly stubborn male, landed in a pine tree and ate a mouse before deigning to return. The falconer simply shrugged – it’s part of the training. Schools use telemetry tags (small GPS trackers) on the birds’ ankles, so they’re never lost. In remote areas like Mongolia, the eagles are wild-trained and follow the hunter’s horse. If an eagle flies away, it’s gone for good – but that’s rare because they form strong pair bonds with their handlers.
Q: Are there age restrictions?
A: In the UK, most schools accept children aged 10 and up, provided they can follow instructions. In the UAE, children under 12 can only hold a falcon while seated. In Mongolia, I saw a 6-year-old boy handling a golden eagle at the festival – but that was his family’s bird, and he’d been raised with it. For tourist experiences, minimum age is usually 14. Pregnant women are advised not to participate due to the risk of being knocked over by a landing bird.
Ready for Your Adventure?
Falconry isn’t a checklist to tick off – it’s a practice that rewires how you pay attention. After my first hawk walk in Scotland, I started noticing the way the wind moves through a field, how a buzzard’s wing tilt signals a thermal, the precise moment when a bird decides to trust you. Those skills stick with you long after you leave the Highlands, the desert, or the steppe.
If you’re hesitating because you think you’re not “outdoorsy” enough or the cost seems high, start small. Book a half-day at the British School of Falconry for £85. That’s less than a fancy dinner in London, and I promise you’ll walk away with a story that will last decades. For those ready to go deeper, Mongolia will test every limit you have – patience, resilience, and your ability to sleep on a sheepskin rug – but it will reward you with the knowledge that you’ve touched a tradition that predates Genghis Khan.
So pick a destination. Pack your gloves. And when that bird lands on your fist, heavy and warm and absolutely alive, remember: you’re not training it. You’re learning to listen. The sky is waiting.
No comments:
Post a Comment