Exmoor National Park

Exmoor National Park: The Ultimate Visitor's Guide | Tips, Trails & Things to Know

Introduction

Where the high, open moorland plunges dramatically into the wild Atlantic, you'll find Exmoor National Park—a landscape of raw, romantic beauty that feels like a secret whispered by the wind. Straddling the counties of Somerset and Devon in South West England, this 267-square-mile park is a masterpiece of contrasts. It's a place of heather-clad plateaus, ancient oak woodlands, deep, wooded combes, and the highest sea cliffs in England. While not a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its significance is profound; Exmoor is a designated International Dark Sky Reserve, offering some of the clearest stargazing in the country, and its wild ponies are an iconic symbol of Britain's untamed spirit.

The park's elevation ranges from sea level along its breathtaking 34-mile Heritage Coast to the summit of Dunkery Beacon at 519 metres (1,703 ft), the highest point on Exmoor. This varied topography creates a haven for wildlife, from the majestic red deer—England's largest land mammal—to otters in its crystal-clear rivers. With approximately 1.4 million visitors annually, Exmoor retains an air of peaceful solitude, offering an escape far from the crowds of more famous parks.

This guide is your key to unlocking Exmoor's magic. We'll cover the best times to visit for heather blooms or stargazing, reveal the top hiking trails with heart-stopping coastal views, explain the practicalities of entrance and fees, and offer insider tips on where to stay, from charming pubs to remote campsites. Whether you seek a challenging hike, a family-friendly adventure, or simply a quiet moment watching the sunset over the Bristol Channel, Exmoor awaits.

Quick Park Facts

• Year Established: 1954, one of Britain's first National Parks.
• Size: 267 square miles (692 sq km), or approximately 171,000 acres.
• Annual Visitors: Approximately 1.4 million.
• Highest Point: Dunkery Beacon at 519m (1,703 ft). Lowest Point: Sea level along the coast.
• Entrance Fee: There is no charge to enter Exmoor National Park itself. Charges apply only for specific car parks, attractions, and events.
• Lodging & Campsites: Over 50 official campsites and caravan parks, plus a wide range of B&Bs, inns, hotels, and self-catering cottages.
• Pets Policy: Dogs are welcome but must be kept under close control, especially near livestock and ground-nesting birds. Always clean up after your pet.
• Nearest Airports: Exeter Airport (EXE) - 1 hour drive; Bristol Airport (BRS) - 1.5 hour drive.
• Gateway Towns: Dulverton (south), Lynmouth/Lynton (north), Porlock (east), Dunster (southeast).
• Accessibility Highlights: Several accessible trails, including the Watersmeet road and paths at Dunster Castle. Miles of accessible multi-use trails on former railway lines. Many visitor centres have accessible facilities.

Best Times to Visit Exmoor National Park

Exmoor's character transforms dramatically with the seasons, each offering a unique reason to visit. The park enjoys a milder climate than much of Britain, but its exposed moorland means weather can change rapidly.

Spring (March-May)

As winter recedes, Exmoor awakens. Temperatures range from a crisp 5°C to a pleasant 15°C (41-59°F). April and May see the woodland floors carpeted in bluebells, particularly in Horner Wood and around Dunkery. Newborn Exmoor foals dot the moorland, and birdlife is prolific. Crowds are light, especially before Easter, and accommodation is more readily available. Be prepared for lingering mud on trails and occasional showers that make the landscapes intensely green.

Summer (June-August)

This is peak season, with long days and temperatures averaging 12-20°C (54-68°F). The heather begins its magnificent purple bloom in late August, painting the moor in vibrant hues. Coastal villages buzz with activity, and it's the best time for swimming in rock pools or paddling in rivers. However, popular spots like Valley of Rocks can get busy. Book accommodation well in advance. While generally pleasant, sea mists (the "Exmoor haar") can roll in unexpectedly.

Fall (September-November)

Arguably Exmoor's most spectacular season. September often brings an "Indian Summer" and the heather is still glorious. The highlight is the red deer rut, from late September through October, when stags can be heard roaring across the moor at dawn and dusk—a truly unforgettable experience. Crowds diminish after October half-term. Temperatures cool from 15°C to 5°C (59-41°F), and autumn colours in the ancient woodlands are stunning. This is a prime shoulder season for photographers and walkers.

Winter (December-February)

A season for solitude and stark beauty. Temperatures range from 1°C to 8°C (34-46°F), with occasional frost and snow dusting the high moor. The park is wonderfully quiet. Crisp, clear winter days offer incredible visibility for coastal walks, and the Dark Sky Reserve status means long, brilliant nights for stargazing. Many smaller attractions and cafes have reduced hours, and some minor roads may be closed in poor weather, but the main routes remain open. Pack for cold, wet, and windy conditions.

Shoulder Season Recommendation: For the best balance of good weather, fewer crowds, and natural spectacle, target late May to mid-June or September. You'll enjoy pleasant conditions, wildlife activity, and greater availability for accommodation.

Top Things to Do in Exmoor National Park

Iconic Scenic Drives

A39 Atlantic Highway & Porlock Hill: The main route along the northern edge offers non-stop coastal panoramas. The climb up Porlock Hill is famously steep (1 in 4 gradient) with a toll-free alternative route. Stop at viewpoints like County Gate for breathtaking moor-and-sea vistas. Allow 1-2 hours for a leisurely drive with stops.

Exmoor's Hoar Oak Route: A 25-mile circular drive from Simonsbath into the heart of the moor. It traverses remote landscapes, passes ancient landmarks like the Hoar Oak Tree, and offers a true sense of wilderness. Mostly single-track with passing places; allow 2-3 hours.

Best Hiking Trails

Easy:
Watersmeet: A 1.5-mile (2.4km) there-and-back walk from the National Trust gorge. Follow the East Lyn River through lush woodland to the dramatic confluence of the East Lyn and Hoar Oak Water. Minimal elevation gain, perfect for families. Allow 1 hour.
Tarr Steps Circular: A 2-mile (3.2km) loop starting at the ancient clapper bridge (Tarr Steps). Wander through riverside meadows and oak woodland. The bridge itself, possibly 3,000 years old, is the highlight. Allow 1.5 hours.

Moderate:
Valley of Rocks & Coast Path: A 3.5-mile (5.6km) loop from Lynton. Explore the dramatic, boulder-strewn valley, then join the South West Coast Path for stunning views of the Bristol Channel. Look for feral goats! ~200m elevation gain. Allow 2-2.5 hours.
Dunkery Beacon from Horner Wood: A 4-mile (6.4km) there-and-back climb through beautiful ancient woodland onto open moor to the park's highest summit. The 360-degree view from the top is unparalleled. ~280m elevation gain. Allow 2.5 hours.

Strenuous:
The Coleridge Way (Section): Tackle a challenging 8-mile (13km) point-to-point section from Porlock to Dunkery Beacon. It combines coastal views, woodland, and a steep moorland ascent. ~450m elevation gain. Allow 4-5 hours (requires transport planning).
Coast Path: Countisbury to Lynmouth: A rugged 5-mile (8km) point-to-point hike with constant, jaw-dropping cliff-top views. Includes a descent through the stunning Glen Lyn Gorge. ~300m of ascent/descent. Allow 3-4 hours.

Wildlife Viewing Hotspots

Exmoor's signature species is the wild red deer. For the best chance of seeing them, head to open moorland at dawn or dusk. Key areas include the land around Dunkery Beacon, Winsford Hill, and The Chains. The autumn rut (late Sep-Oct) is the most dramatic time. Exmoor Ponies roam freely across the moor. Birdwatchers should visit Wimbleball Lake for ospreys (in season) and the coast for peregrine falcons and ravens. The rivers are home to otters, though they are elusive.

Ranger-Led Programs

The Exmoor National Park Authority and partners like the National Trust run an excellent program of guided walks and events year-round. These include deer rut safaris in autumn, dark sky astronomy evenings (often at Wimbleball Lake or Holdstone Hill), guided history walks, and family-friendly foraging or wildlife tracking sessions. Booking is essential for most events. Check the official Exmoor National Park website for the current calendar.

Photography Hotspots

1. Dunkery Beacon at Sunrise: Capture the first light spilling over a sea of mist-covered moorland.
2. Heddon's Mouth: For dramatic seascapes and long-exposure shots of the river meeting the sea through a steep valley.
3. Tarr Steps in Autumn: The ancient bridge framed by golden and copper oak leaves is iconic.
4. Valley of Rocks at Golden Hour: Late afternoon sun illuminates the bizarre rock formations and casts long shadows.
5. Porlock Weir at Twilight: The still harbour, fishing boats, and moody skies make for perfect atmospheric shots.

Where to Stay

Lodges, Hotels & Inns

Exmoor offers charming accommodation, from luxury country houses to rustic inns. In Lynmouth/Lynton, the Rock House Hotel ($$-$$$) offers stunning harbour views. The Royal Oak Inn in Winsford ($$) is a classic, walker-friendly Exmoor pub. For a splurge, The Luttrell Arms in Dunster ($$$) is a historic coaching inn. In Dulverton, consider the Ashwick House ($$) for a peaceful B&B. Book 3-6 months in advance for summer and October.

Campgrounds

Camping immerses you in Exmoor's sounds and scents. Cloud Farm Camping near Doone Valley is a beautiful riverside site, popular and often busy (reservations recommended). Exford Caravan & Camping Park is a central, family-friendly site with good facilities (reservations advised). For a simpler, more remote experience, try Woody Bay Camping Park near the coast (mostly first-come, first-served in low season). Always check opening dates, as many close from October to Easter.

Gateway Communities

Staying just outside the park offers variety. Dunster (southeast) is a medieval village with a spectacular castle and easy park access. Dulverton (south) is a bustling "capital" of Exmoor with great shops and eateries. Minehead (east) is a larger seaside town with a range of hotels and supermarkets. Barnstaple (northwest) is the main regional hub, about 30 minutes from the park boundary, with extensive amenities.

How to Get to Exmoor National Park

Exmoor is best explored by car, offering freedom to reach remote trailheads and villages. The park is roughly 4 hours west of London by road.

From London: Take the M4 west, then M5 south. Exit at Junction 23 (Bridgwater) for the A39 to Minehead/Dunster, or at Junction 25 (Taunton) for the A358 to Williton and then the A39. Journey time: ~3.5-4 hours.

From Bristol: Take the M5 south to Junction 23 or 24, then follow signs for the A38/A39. Journey time: ~1.5 hours.

From Exeter: Take the M5 north to Junction 27 (Tiverton), then the A361/A396 north to Dulverton. Journey time: ~1 hour.

Nearest Airports: Exeter Airport (EXE) (1 hour drive) and Bristol Airport (BRS) (1.5 hour drive) both have major car rental agencies. Public Transport: Train stations in Taunton and Barnstaple connect to national rail networks. From there, bus services (primarily the 398/399 "Exmoor Explorer" and others) serve key villages like Minehead, Dunster, and Lynmouth, but services are infrequent, especially on Sundays and in winter. Planning is essential.

Entrance Fees, Passes & Reservations

There is no general entrance fee to drive into or explore Exmoor National Park. You pay for specific amenities:

Car Parks: Most National Park and National Trust car parks have a charge, typically £3-5 for all-day parking. Consider an Exmoor National Park Annual Parking Pass (£50-60) if staying multiple days, as it covers most (but not all) parks. National Trust members park free at their sites.

Attractions: Major sites like Dunster Castle (National Trust), Knightshayes Court (National Trust), and the Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway have separate admission fees.

Reservations: No timed entry reservations are required for the park. You must, however, book accommodation, guided activities, and sometimes parking for very popular spots (like Watersmeet on a summer weekend) well in advance.

Packing Essentials & Gear Recommendations

Exmoor's weather is famously changeable. "Be prepared" is the mantra.

Clothing (Year-Round): A waterproof and windproof jacket is non-negotiable. Use a layering system: moisture-wicking base layer, insulating mid-layer (fleece/lightweight down), and outer shell. Even in summer, pack a warm layer for exposed moorland evenings.

Footwear: Sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with good ankle support are essential for muddy paths, rocky coastal trails, and uneven moorland terrain.

Day Hike Essentials: Ordnance Survey Explorer maps OL9 (Exmoor) are superior to phone GPS alone. Carry a compass, plenty of water, high-energy snacks, a basic first-aid kit, a headtorch, and a fully charged phone (signal is poor in many areas).

Specialist Gear: A red-light headtorch is ideal for preserving night vision during dark sky sessions. Binoculars are a must for wildlife and coastal bird spotting. If wild swimming, a wetsuit is advised due to cold water temperatures.

For Campers: A high-quality tent rated for strong winds and heavy rain. A warm sleeping bag (3-season minimum) and a sleeping mat for insulation from the ground.

Accessibility Information

Exmoor is working to improve accessibility within a challenging landscape. Several miles of level, multi-use trails follow former railway lines, such as the Exe Valley Way near Dulverton and the Tarka Trail near Barnstaple. The road down to Watersmeet is tarmacked and suitable for wheelchairs with assistance. Dunster Castle has accessible gardens and a shuttle to the castle entrance.

Most main visitor centres (Dulverton, Lynmouth, Dunster) have accessible toilets and level access. The Exmoor National Park Authority website details specific "Miles Without Stiles" routes. Service animals are welcome across the park but must be kept under control. Some campsites and many B&Bs offer accessible rooms; always enquire directly when booking.

Sample 3-Day and 5-Day Itineraries

3-Day Highlights Itinerary

Day 1 – The North Coast: Arrive in Lynton/Lynmouth. Ride the Cliff Railway. Hike the stunning Valley of Rocks loop. Drive the A39 for coastal views, stopping at Countisbury. Evening in Lynmouth harbour.

Day 2 – Heart of the Moor: Drive to Dunkery Beacon for sunrise or morning views. Hike from Horner Wood. Afternoon visit to the ancient Tarr Steps and a walk along the River Barle. Dinner in Dulverton.

Day 3 – Wooded Gorges & History: Morning at Watersmeet for a beautiful riverside walk. Afternoon exploring the medieval village and castle at Dunster. Depart.

5-Day In-Depth Itinerary

Days 1 & 2 – As above.

Day 3 – Western Moors & Reservoirs: Explore the remote area around Simonsbath and the River Barle. Visit Wimbleball Lake for watersports, a lakeside walk, or dark sky preparations.

Day 4 – South & East: Walk part of the Coleridge Way from Porlock. Visit the charming village of Selworthy and the thatched cottages of Bossington. Evening star-gazing if conditions allow.

Day 5 – Hidden Gems: Choose based on interest: the wildlife at Heddon's Mouth, the industrial heritage at Watersmeet's fishing hut, or a final cream tea in a moorland cafe like Exford's before departing.

Family-Friendly Tips

Exmoor is a fantastic adventure playground for children. Pick up a Junior Ranger pack from a National Park Centre, full of activities to complete during your visit. Easy, engaging walks include the Tarr Steps loop (look for "Pooh sticks" spots), the Watersmeet trail (ice cream at the end!), and the flat Wimbleball Lake circuit. The Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway is always a hit. Many farms offer family-friendly stays with animal feeding. Pack a bucket and net for rock-pooling at Lynmouth or Bossington Beach. Most pubs are family-friendly, offering early dinner options.

Rules, Safety & Leave No Trace

Livestock & Deer: Exmoor is a working landscape. Always keep dogs under close control (preferably on a lead) near livestock and ground-nesting birds. Observe deer from a distance, especially during the rut; never approach stags.

Weather: Check forecasts but be prepared for rapid changes. On high moorland, fog can descend suddenly—know your navigation. In winter, trails can be icy and treacherous.

Coastal Safety: Stay on marked paths near cliff edges, which can be unstable. Be aware of tide times if exploring beaches.

Leave No Trace: Take all litter home. Guard against fire risk—use designated BBQ areas only. Keep to paths to avoid erosion and protect fragile moorland vegetation. Leave ancient monuments and rocks as you find them.

Driving: Roads are often narrow, winding, and used by farm animals, cyclists, and walkers. Drive slowly and be prepared to reverse to passing places.

Permits: No permit is needed for day hiking. For organised group activities or commercial filming, contact the Park Authority.

Nearby Attractions

Extend your West Country adventure with these nearby gems:

North Devon Coast: The dramatic surfing beaches of Croyde and Woolacombe are under an hour's drive north, as is the unique tidal island of Lundy (accessible by ferry from Ilfracombe or Bideford).

Quantock Hills: An Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) to the east, offering beautiful wooded hills and heathland, about 45 minutes' drive.

Dartmoor National Park: For a contrast with Exmoor's intimate combes, Dartmoor's vast, granite tors and open spaces are about a 1.5-hour drive south.

Historic Cities: The cathedral city of Exeter (1 hour south) and the Roman and Georgian spa city of Bath (1.5 hours east) offer rich cultural experiences.

FAQ About Visiting Exmoor National Park

How many days do you need in Exmoor?

We recommend a minimum of 2-3 full days to experience the coast, moorland, and a key village. Five days allows for deeper exploration, longer hikes, and relaxation.

Can you see Exmoor in one day?

Yes, a day trip can capture highlights. Focus on one area: e.g., Lynton/Lynmouth and the Valley of Rocks in the morning, then drive to Dunkery Beacon and Watersmeet in the afternoon.

Are there bears in Exmoor?

No. Exmoor's iconic large mammals are wild red deer and Exmoor ponies. There are no large predators like bears or wolves.

Is Exmoor dog-friendly?

Very, but with crucial responsibilities. Dogs must be under close control at all times. They are not allowed in some areas during lambing (spring) or ground-nesting bird season. Always clean up after your pet.

What is the closest airport to Exmoor?

Exeter Airport (EXE) is the closest, about a 1-hour drive to the southern park boundary. Bristol Airport (BRS) is about 1.5 hours away and offers more flight options.

Do I need a reservation for Exmoor?

No reservation is needed to enter the park. However, you absolutely need to book accommodation, popular guided walks (e.g., deer rut safaris), and sometimes parking at honeypot sites in advance.

When does Exmoor close?

The park is open 24/7, year-round. Individual attractions, visitor centres, cafes, and shops have their own seasonal opening hours, which often reduce in winter.

Can I wild camp in Exmoor?

Wild camping is not permitted without the landowner's explicit permission, which is rare. It's best to use one of the many official campsites to protect the landscape and respect farming.

What is Exmoor famous for?

Exmoor is famous for its wild red deer, Exmoor ponies, the highest sea cliffs in England, its International Dark Sky Reserve status, and the beautiful purple heather that blooms across the moor in late summer.

Conclusion

Exmoor National Park is a land of timeless beauty, where every turn in the path reveals a new vista—a sweeping moorland view, a hidden wooded valley, or a dramatic meeting of cliff and sea. It's a place that rewards the curious walker, the patient wildlife watcher, and anyone who finds joy in big skies and the quiet rhythm of nature. Whether you come for the exhilarating hikes, the haunting call of a rutting stag, or simply to breathe in the clean, heather-scented air, Exmoor leaves an indelible mark on the soul.

Our final tip: slow down. Don't try to tick off every sight. Sit awhile on a coastal bench, linger in a village pub, and let the landscape's subtle magic work on you. Plan ahead, come prepared for all weathers, and tread lightly to help preserve this extraordinary corner of England for generations to come. Your Exmoor adventure awaits.